coming in after a great surf session, taking a hot shower, and talking story with friends and family. this is what surfing is all about.
Ayumi-san was probably thinking, “did i really go out there and catch 2 waves at Pipeline and 1 at Backdoor?” yes you did girl! and you did great!
when Seth was 10 years old, we went to hang out at Yugawara with Team Wavy. so this isn’t the first time meeting. years continue, and so do new memories. my surfing world is much smaller than you think. there is a link to each and every one i met these past 40 years. and i love it.
so we come back to town, plan to snorkel and look for whales. i pull out into the ocean and my 360 degree vision kicks in. i’m looking at the waves, the people, the wind, the weather, the whales, and the mermaids all at once. i look over to a spot that is usually crowded and see nobody out? i drop anchor and tell Yuki-san and Ayumi-san, “you guys are lucky once again! hurry and jump in!”
it was just us and that beautiful thing in the background. on a friday afternoon surfing a well known spot with nobody out was a score!
Ayumi-san got so many waves. after each one, the biggest smile and saying “i’m so happy!” haha.
Yuki-san had his share at Pipeline so he just kept letting Ayumi-san go on every wave.
and she kept going, going, and going. super stoked and super happy girl.
it was time to go in for our dessert at Waiola Shave Ice. the perfect ending to a perfect day! and to think i knew Yuki-san since he was 6 years old? omg! so happy to see him grown up, mature, a good surfer, with a beautiful wife, and a bright future. i wish you guys the best!
