Summer into Winter

6

The winds are cooler, the sky is changing, the water temperature dropped a degree, and it’s starting to feel like winter.  When I paddled out yesterday, I suddenly felt that summer has ended.  The waves will be smaller from now but it’s still perfect and beautiful.  Just look at Malcom.  

Now that there are waves all around the island, the surfers are spread out.  It’s been empty on the south shore.  

The uncles show up every day no matter what.  I respect that a lot.

Even though it’s small in Hawaii standards, it’s still epic for Japanese surfers.  To be able to surf these waves with nobody around is like going on a dream surf trip.

And yes, you can still get barreled.

I looked for tickets to Japan last month and it was $1,300 for a round trip.  Then I checked last week and it went down to $399 one way.  You can basically buy a cheap ticket the day you want to fly out.    And let me tell you, ANA is one of the best airlines to fly in the world.  So if you can find a deal on ANA, take it!

I took it…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide