the WSL big wave contest in mexico was ON today! the waves were incredible! so stoked to see this kind of surfing right from my home. i’d say the sets were solid 20′ hawaiian scale, or 50′ faces.
watching it brought back so many memories. i went there about 15 years ago for a surf shoot for a japanese magazine. the waves were only 8′ hawaiian or 20′ faces, but i remember how dangerous it was. so much power that the wave would hold you on the bottom forever. i rode a 7’6 and didn’t use a leash, so being stuck on the bottom of the ocean 10′ deep trying my hardest to resurface wasn’t fun. and being that i was alone, nobody would even know if i disappeared. was kind of freaky, but freaky exciting. i actually liked it.
oh, and the most spooky part is i paddled out alone early morning every single day for a week. pretty much still dark. there is no channel, or no jet skis at the time, so you would have to time it perfectly. watch the ocean, time it right, and pretty much pray you don’t get caught by a big set. and if you do, you have to swim in and start over again. oh, and change boards when it breaks. then by 9am, the onshore winds would come and the waves would get junky. then it was corona and tacos for the rest of the day. haha. the finals for the contest should be on tomorrow. don’t miss it!
ok, remember i wrote on a blog years ago about the rail system not working here in hawaii? why? mostly because people in hawaii have no respect for other peoples property. they are storing the new rail in waipahu, and somebody snuck in last night and sprayed graffiti all over the train!
yes, us taxpayers payed $2M for each of these trains and now it went from brand new, to brand old. the project is not even close to done and we are still having so many problems. so sad to see our landscape change so drastically for something that most people believe won’t work.
hanging out with Mateus. playing japanese style. haha.
