Taiwan House, Waves, and BEER!

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when i came here 2 years ago, Mori-san’s dream house was half built. was cool watching it come together. now, it’s fully built! freaking amazing! if i built my own dream house, it would look exactly like this. in fact, i’m going to ask Mori-san for the blueprints. haha. than i can dream big!
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rented this brand new car from the airport and having fun driving around. feeling a little local. drivers up here drive crazy!!!
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after an awesome evening surf session, the taiwan beers go down really good. we surfed until pitch dark! only us again as our dream surf trip continues.
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when in taiwan, drink taiwan beer. simply said.
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woke up this morning and OMG! solid 6′ perfect rights and nobody out!!! we scored again! felt so good riding a huge wall and carving it up. so stoked!
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this typhoon is sending waves everywhere! and it’s not even done yet!
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now i have to think about how to get home through this typhoon. changing airports by the minute and hopeful will be able to fly right through it tomorrow. we shall see and we shall hope because i work on tuesday morning. OMG!
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more spots, more waves, and more memories. i love this place! thank you Mori-san for the wonderful experience. i’m sure i will see you again really soon. haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide