timing is everything. i took my friend and his kid surfing yesterday and today and we scored the most perfect waves! yesterday was completely glassy and the waves as perfect as it can be. it was raining so nobody was at the beach or in the water. it was just us having fun. then today it was really sunny and hot in the morning. the winds were super strong onshore. but as we were driving to the beach, a huge black cloud came and the winds switched straight offshore. perfect waves again for my friend and his cute kid. i’m having so much fun surfing these days!!!!

then i came home and the electricity in my neighborhood was off. no lights, no computer, or no nothing. so i laid down on my nice sofa and took the most peaceful nap in a long time. then guess what woke me up? the lights came back on. shit!

when we started go-naminori, i didn’t even have enough money but i decided to rent a house on the north shore at rocky point for our team. i just wanted to create a good feeling and let people stay there for free. we had it for almost 2 months and when it was over, it was pretty sad. and now that the surfing industry isn’t doing too well, i’m trying to work hard so i can rent another go-naminori house on the north shore in the next season or so. and if i do, everybody can stay there for free! wish me luck!

an average house on the north shore like that cost over $7,000/month. i still can’t believe i rented that place with the budget we had. but i never live with regrets as a lot of happy memories come out of that house. my next dream rental house will be right in front of pipeline! that’s my big dream and don’t be surprised if it comes soon. see you there!

Thank you Takeda-san!

do you know what music piracy is? it’s when you download or file-share music illegally. about 15 years ago, everybody did it. websites like Limewire and Kazaa use to let you file-share and download music for free. most of america did it. and if you got caught, you were made an example of what would happen.

these guys would track you down and send a top lawyer to sue you. one of my good friends was this sweetest girl you would ever meet. she downloaded a few songs not knowing it was illegal. she ended up being one of the unlucky ones getting caught. next thing, her name was on the news, newspapers, and was ordered by the courts to pay $5,000. she was scared as shit and paid it. back then, i wouldn’t have paid. it turned out paying the $5,000 was the smartest thing she’d ever do. why?
a few days ago, another american women was in the same situation 8 years ago. they ordered her to pay $5,000 and she didn’t. she tried to fight the best lawyers in the country. and after all those years of battle in courts, she finally got her final decision. the court ordered her to pay $222,000!!!! OMG! then another guy was ordered to pay $675,000!!!! OMG!
it goes to show you that the music industry has the power to hire the best lawyers and sue the shit out of you. we are like ants vs. giants. so if you still decide to pirate music, software or music, don’t say i didn’t warn you.

this warning is on every dvd you buy legally and illegally. before i didn’t believe they would find you. but now, i do. so be careful because somebody is always watching you!!!! scary.