New Fashion? Wow!
Good morning 6:15am.
North shore 1-3′ and fun. A little bumpy but surfable.
South is super junk. Waist high and onshore.
Wind are South/West @ 15-25mph.
Weather is cloudy becoming rainy today. Heavy rain tomorrow.
Plan: I don’t know.
Have a wonderful day!

good evening. went to dawn patrol the north shore this morning. it felt so good to be back in the water. the waves weren’t as good as i thought but the conditions couldn’t be any better. no wind, no clouds, super sunny, and super clear water. it was paradise! i surfed this morning for 3 hours and 1.5 this afternoon. i’m pretty sunburnt and tired. but no jet lag at all. yeah!

the conditions at pipe couldn’t get any better. it doesn’t get any more beautiful than this.

then was i was leaving, i could feel the west wind coming. this is how it looked in the afternoon. on days like today, timing is important. you have to know where and when to go or you could end not even surfing.

i pull into my house at 11:30am with my plate lunch. i check the conditions and ala moana was perfect! we were supposed to surf at 2pm but i had a feeling the winds were coming too. so i called up Inaida-san and we surfed at 12:30 instead. that turned out to be a great decision because look what happened later in the day?

yeah, we got out of the water at 2pm and it was still good. then this is what happened shortly after. we scored perfect waves with nobody around.
these next 5 days are going to be tricky because of the wind and weather. it can switch in an instant so better be prepared if you want to surf good waves. strong south winds predicted tomorrow so north would be best. or if you’re lucky, you can score somewhere else. good luck!

the reason i went to japan was to celebrate a special kanriki 60th birthday with Inaida-san. it’s been 2 years since we met and i’ve learned so much since. Inaida-san has taught me so much about business, respect, honor, success, and motivation. at first, it was hard for me to understand such a different world. a kind of world you only hear and see in movies. but now, i’m experiencing things first hand and actually starting to like it. haha. i ask so many questions because i’m so curious about successful people. i want to know how and why. i want to know everything. it’s been a great 2 years of surfing together and getting to know another world. it’s just so fascinating how motivation, dedication, and respect can take you so far in life. ever since i met Inaida-san, i think i work 2x harder, think 3x more, and dream 10x more than i have ever. it’s the motivation my brain needs to make a difference in this world.

so there we are sipping whisky in a classy bar in Azabu. out comes the cake.

then the smile of a very successful man.

may all your wishes come true.
Happy 60th birthday Inaida-san! A great and successful 60 years has passed by for you and now it will only get better. Thank you for your kindness and generosity. You have given me a lot of encouragement, a lot of support, and lot of confidence. I really appreciate it. You’re a surfer now so you will only get younger and younger, and stronger and stronger. Let’s keep on surfing and keep on living the great life in Hawaii. See you in the water!
**this photo sequence taken with my $20 fisheye on my iphone. priceless!