i pull up to ala moana park yesterday morning with butterflies in my stomach. i just knew i was going to surf overhead waves and get barreled. big rights is my favorite spot on the south shore once it gets over 4′. i park my car and get ready in the dark. first swell of the year? oh yes!!!

can you believe there were “no parking” signs all along the park? i bet you a hundred of surfers cars got towed yesterday because i came in at 8:50am and there were still so many cars there. 9am was the cut off time and i know the cops will be there in full force. anyway, had a great session at big rights. got a few barrels, seen Gen get the barrel of the morning, and had fun talking and catching up with my friends. i love being in the water!

then i pass by bowls and it’s going off! 50 hungry surfers fighting for every wave that came in. no thank you.

on the small days, you can see the lonely red buoy kind of far out in the channel. that red buoy wasn’t too lonely yesterday. i’d say 10-15′ faces at bowls.

and when the deep channel closes out, you know it’s big. it wasn’t a day for boats to go in and out.

i surf dawn patrol for 3 hours. then jump on the harley and head to the airport. board my flight, buckle my seat belt, and fall asleep like a baby. 9 hours later, i’m in tokyo. got up now at 4am because of jetlag, eating breakfast, getting a massage, then heading to the airport and boarding a flight to hokkaido! i’m going to learn something from a totally different world today and i’m looking forward to it. have a beautiful day!

In Asakusa, Japan

i meet the coolest people every single day. this is Ura-san. i picked him up yesterday and we surfed super good waves in the morning at bowls. Ura-san just started surfing 8 months ago so i was expecting a beginner. when he caught his first wave, i thought he was going to go straight. but this beginner is different. as soon as he took off, he set the rail and rode a super long right. how did he get so good so fast? he’s being taught by professional surfer Naohisa Ogawa in japan for the past 8 months. i was really impressed by his level of surfing and i was super stoked to find out that Naohisa Ogawa was passing on his skills to this cool guy.
hey Ura-san, once a surfer, always a surfer. i had a great time with you yesterday! surf good waves, eat acai bowl and shave ice. keep on surfing and hope to see you again! mahalo
and to Nao-san, it was nice to talk to you the other day. keep on surfing and keep on charging pipe! you’re a great super surfer and teacher. keep spreading the surfing vibe to everyone! mahalo

the other day i was hanging out with my nephews. it’s so funny that all we talk about is diving. josh and seth just got back from western australia getting totally barreled. but the only thing on their mind was to get the boat fixed and go diving. these kids are growing up to be true surfers and divers. i’m so stoked to be their uncle. go boys!
last, i have to jump on an airplane today and go to a meeting. two trips ago, it was 2 days in japan, last trip, it was 1 day in japan, this trip? we shall find out. i’m starting to prioritize things in my life. experience is the key to success and with all the experience i’m experiencing lately, i think i’m on the road to success. yeah, i will miss some waves. but you know what? the waves will always be there for me. nothing changes in hawaii and when i get back, it will be the same wave, same wind, same people, and same barrels. that’s why i chose to go to this meeting and sacrifice a few barrels. but when i get back, stay back and see you in the barrel! haha.