good evening. wow, got up early, checked everywhere. north shore already had junky west winds so i knew it was coming soon to town. looked around and this super secret spot had perfect waves with only 2 guys out. so we waxed up, paddled out, and had a great experience. a new spot, a new experience, and a new smile. oh, and new wipeouts! haha. the waves were super fun and the conditions couldn’t have been any better. then right on time, the west winds came and made the waves junk everywhere. by then, we were satisfied.
then i came in and went shopping for a friend. i wish i could tell you what we bought but i better not. all i can say is that one of my wildest dreams came true today. thank you friend!
tomorrow more west winds so better go early or forget it. i’m going to watch the wind, the weather, the waves, and surf the best spot again. can’t wait. better eat dinner and sleep early because i still think i’m dreaming.
and to all you kids out there, keep the dream alive. i swear if you dream big, work hard, and never give up, your dreams will come true. i’m a true believer!

what an awesome day! got up early, surfed a secret spot in town all myself again. paddled out to perfect waves with nobody around. got some perfect glassy waves. then dropped off a friend at the airport, then went to the north shore. surfed haleiwa for a quick session, went to a meeting, had lunch, picked up 2 of my new boards, got stuck in traffic, came back to town for a photo shoot, and had the most amazing japanese sushi dinner. a completely awesome day!

oh, this was my lunch in wahiawa. meat jun. so good!

then came back to waikiki, the sun came out for an hour, perfect timing for us to get the photos.

this is 10x japanese bodyboard champion Aoi Koike. took some awesome photos of her. and wanted to congratulate her for getting 3rd place in the Pipeline contest yesterday.
same thing today, wake up early and surf, shop, think, eat, and yoga. yeah, i need the yoga to relax my busy mind.

Balance is everything!
Good morning 6:10am.
North shore down from yesterday. 1-3′ and ugly North winds conditions.
South shore waist high and a little bigger at Diamond Head.
Winds are light from the North at 5mph. Becoming variable later.
Conditions are perfect everywhere in the morning. Onshore winds later.
Weather is cloudy/rainy/sunny.
Plan is surf secret spot!
Have a wonderful day!