when i was in high school, a bunch of my surfer classmates use to speed down the hill on our bicycles or skateboards after school finishes. it was a mad race to get into the water and catch the first wave. and we’d surf till dark. then we would go back home so excited for the next day so we could do the same thing. so yesterday morning, i revisited one of the secret surf spots from my childhood days. the wind was calm, the sun was shining, and the ocean couldn’t have been any better. i paddle out, nobody is around for miles and miles. i catch some perfect waves and felt like i was a kid again. complete silence. then i see a guy paddling out from far away. he’s coming to my spot? then as he gets closer, he smiles, i smile, and there he was, my childhood surfer friend. we go back 30 years, he went his way, i went my way. now we meet again in the same exact surf spot we use to surf together. we laugh, we talk about the good old days, we exchange waves, and as i paddled in, i felt like a kid again. it’s days like yesterday that made me realize how surfing is so important to me. and also made me realize how going back to my roots calms my mind, body, and soul.
then i surf ala moana bowls in the afternoon. no parking, so many people, beginners, tourists, police, homeless, and angry locals. welcome back to the fast life of surfing! haha. i love it! and knowing that my secret peaceful surf spot is only 20 minutes away makes me happy. i’ll be going back there a lot more.
surf your dream!

Surf n Sea Pipeline Womens Pro
Presented by San Lorenzo Bikinis
ASP 1-Star Pro Junior Women’s event
Banzai Pipeline, Oahu Hawaii
12 – 22 March 2013
Women’s Longboard Final
IZUMI BALDWIN HI 1ST
MAILI INOS BRENNEGAN HI 2ND
Women’s Body Board Final
KARLA COSTA TAYLOR BRAZIL 1ST
MINAMI HATEKEYAMA JAPAN 2ND
AOI KOIKE JAPAN 3RD
ASAKO SHIOTSUKI JAPAN 4TH
MELANIE BARTELS HAWAII 5TH
Women’s Short Board Final
DAX MCGILL HAWAII 1ST
ANASTASIA ASHLEY CA. 2ND
TATIANA WESTON WEBB HI. 3RD
FRANCIE HARRIER CA. 4TH
BRIANA COPE HAWAII 5TH
MELANIE BARTELS 6TH

Everything is going to be OK!
Good morning 6am surf report.
North shore 2-4′ and fun. Super clean.
South shore waist at Ala Moana and fun. Super clean.
Everywhere fun!
Winds are light becoming onshore later.
Weather is getting bad. Rain, clouds, and maybe sun. Tomorrow heavy rain.
Plan is SURF!
Have a wonderful day!