Indonesia: We Are One!

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one of the highlights on the mentawai trip was the day we went to the
beach to donate school supplies to the kids. as most of us forgot, the
tsunami in 2010 hit the mentawai islands and washed away villages and
kids. some villages completely vanished and it’s weird not seeing them
anymore. schools, houses, churches, and everything gone. so we bought
the supplies with money that was donate through a blog i posted back in
2010. then finally, the day had come to deliver it hand to hand. you
should have seen the smiles on the kids faces. they were so stoked to
get all new supplies like books, pencils, erasers, and toys. after this
day, i thought to myself that We Are One started way before the japan
tsunami. it started back in 2010 and just got implemented and grew. my
dream was always to make one kid happy, but now after seeing so many
smiling faces, i’m addicted. no matter what part of the world you’re
from, a kid is a kid. and every kid deserves to be happy! we kept half
the supplies on the boat and kyle is going back in november to put the
rest in the right hands. thank you all again!
ok, now back to reality. i board my flight at midnight. i take my seat,
and before the airplane door closes, i’m out cold. i wake up 3 hours
later to use the toilet and have a stiff neck. OMG! i was sleeping in a
business class seat that can recline but didn’t recline it. yeah,
sleeping straight up. haha. i adjust it, make it comfortable, and next
thing you know, i look out my window and see blue hawaii. i was super
stoked! happy! and glad to be back home. my boards were mistakenly
tagged as economy baggage so i ended up being the last person on the
plane to get my luggage. yeah, i was the first one on the flight, first
one off the flight, first one through customs, and last to get my
luggage. was i mad? no. i was just happy to be back home. maybe in a few
days i will call ANA and see what the heck happened? but for now, i’m
enjoying my regular island style life!
trying to respond to over 500 emails. please be patient. and to all the
people who comment on my blog via email, i really appreciate every one.
feels good to connect with people around the world. keep on surfing, and
keep on aiming for your dreams. let’s all get there together. good night!

Lucky, Lucky??

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Ala Moana Bowls NOW!
2-3′ and Good!
Go-Naminori!!!!

Lucky?

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Pipeline NOW!!!! 3-5′ and good!
North swell in June? RARE!