OMG, i paddle out to bowls this morning and the waves were perfect. only a few leftover locals out as everybody is too tired to surf anymore. solid 6 days of pumping surf so everybody is sunburnt or rode just too many waves. heavy arms, burnt faces, and happy smiles. this has to have been the longest strongest swell in the history of the south shore. i’m so happy i left hawaii last friday because i remember fighting with 30 other guys to get a decent wave on the first day of the swell. now, i’m the most energetic guy in the ocean and i’m far from surfed out. i just started! caught so many perfect waves yesterday and today. tomorrow same thing. enjoy this everlasting super south swell!

yes, it started about 10 days ago in tahiti. this is the same swell we’re surfing right now! no heavy wipeouts like this, but there are still a lot of surfers that are not supposed to be out on big days like this. this morning a beginner almost killed me. luckily i learned to keep my anger under control.

then i get up and check the north shore cam. OMG! i thought i was dreaming. pipeline and backdoor solid 6′ barreling in may? are you kidding me????? waves everywhere so everybody is super happy now.

i was just about to buy an iPhone 5 but my friend stopped me and said “the new iPhone 5s should be out in a few months, so wait!” i’m a very patient guy so waiting a few months is not a problem. when can i wait in line? haha.

the first phase of overselling hawaii has officially started. the owner of ward centers just unveiled the first of many phases at kakaako. 3 new high rise towers will start construction so 900 condo units are for sale. then the master plan is to have 22 more towers with 4,300 units going up in the future. same roads with 22 new condo high rise towers? are you joking? the traffic is already crazy around there and i’m not looking forward to driving an hour to get to kewalo’s. something is wrong here.
well, going to bed early again, getting up early and surfing all day tomorrow. more sun, more swell, and more waves. some people say i’m lucky? i just feel like all the years of surfing, traveling, and making friends around the world has finally put me a the perfect place i use to dream about. and now i’m living in a dream that took 25 years to build, i can’t be an happier than i am. thanks to you all!

Ala Moana Bowls Channel.
Abunai means “Dangerous or Hatihati”

for the past year, i’ve always wanted to enjoy the japan surf culture. just jump in the car with friends, drive around, surf, eat, and laugh. i use to do this every year for the past 20 years but recently been so busy that i just didn’t have the time. so when i had a full free day, i called some friends for the surf report, got picked up in tokyo, and relived the japan surf culture that i love so much.

luckily on my last trip, i kept a full suit at a friends house in tokyo, and a surfboard in chiba. without one of the two, i can’t surf. this is my mobile brand new Dove Wetsuit, and my magic TSSC single fin. can’t live without them.

Go-Naminori blogger Dave Yamaya inspires me. his hard work, his family values, and his friendship is priceless. a hawaiian living the dream life in japan. this guy will be my friend forever.

for the past 2 weeks, chiba has been flat. lucky me again? i think so because the waves were perfect all day long. i waxed my board with the wrong wax so i slipped on almost every wave. and because i didn’t have a leash, i was swimming in the cold water for my board all morning. i felt like a beginner. haha.

Beach Press Eri-chan on the left, Hikaru-san on the right. this is part of the go-naminori team that is so precious! thanks girls!

then Kita-kun on the left, and Naoka on the right. Kita-kun is a really smart kid attending Keio University. he is an intern for go-naminori that does some english to japanese translations. hanging out with him was cool. Kita-kun’s dream is to become a pilot and i’m sure his dream will come true. Naoka needs to get away from his computer so whenever i get the chance to do a small surf trip in japan, he has to come. that’s part of the go-naminori company policy. surf first, work later.
i’m really happy that i got to hang out with my team for the whole day. we had such great conversations about life, about work, about future, and about friendship. as the president of go-naminori, these surf trips are mandatory so see you all again. surf your dream!