on a perfect sunny, no wind day last winter, i was driving out to the north shore because the waves were big and perfect. i’ve been doing that for the past 25 years and while i was heading out there, something in my mind changed. yes, i was in my north shore season routine of going out and trying to get the biggest barrel ride. that was my job and that was my focus. but this day, all my friends from japan were here in hawaii. i thought to myself, “what would make me happier? being in a big barrel on the north shore all by myself and getting a photo from all the photographers lined up on the beach? or surfing with my friends in town and having a good time?” i took the next exit off the freeway, u-turned, and headed back to town. called up my friends, met them at the beach, and had the best winter day of my life. as i was surfing out bowls with all my friends and i couldn’t have been a happier person. that day taught me something. surfing is not all about catching the biggest wave of your life. surfing is all about enjoying the ride. and enjoying the ride with people you love and respect!
early morning blue sky surf session start!
Ayumi-chan from Stone Free, Chigasaki. Always a nice smile!
Kimura-san from Yamari, Wakayama. This is my Papa. Always taking care of me.
Juri-chan from Chigasaki, Hawaii. Good surfer and hard worker.
Kazuma Miyagi from Okinawa. Okinawa’s Kelly Slater.
Ryosuke from Wakayama. Go-Naminori salesman of the year!
Seigo-san from Maruyata Ramen in Wakayama. The best ramen man in the world.
drive 1 hour in the traffic to north shore? or drive 10 minutes to bowls? easy choice this day.
Takahashi-san from The Beach Hotel in Okinawa. Always a happy man with a wonderful new life ahead!
Kazubo-san from Hard Reef, Okinawa. Mr. Mensore and Mr. Aloha. The warmest heart of Okinawa.
Local Motion Maki-san. The Japanese girls boss in Hawaii. Nice feet!
Ocean’s Love Maki-chan. The million dollar smile.
Opps, i forgot this cool guys name but want to say Thank You for checking out Go-Naminori! Surf your dream!
Omine-san from Naha, Okinawa. Great surfer and great entertainer. Always taking care of me for Naha Night life.
and this is happy me. if i did this at backdoor/pipeline, somebody would beat me up if i posed for a photo like this. haha. the waves this day were perfect for all of us. i had a great time and if i drove out to the north shore that morning, i would have missed the true essence of surfing. hey everybody, surf your dream!
thank you to all my friends who come to hawaii every winter season. next year, same thing! let’s go-naminori and let’s have fun!