8:30am pick up Nakagawa-san from hotel. Gosh, I love Christmas!!!!
We talk. He wants challenge. Ok, let’s go get challenge on North Shore.
9:30am arrive at Laniakea.
Waves are 6-8′ and perfect.
He rides 6’8, I ride 6’3.
10:15 big freak set (obake set) breaks on our head.
He almost dies, I broke my leash.
We surf 3 hours. Talk to Taylor Knox, Kalani Robb, and Pat O’Connel.
12:30pm and he’s alive! Made it safely back to the beach.
1:00 we eat Ted’s Bakery bbq meat plate.
1:15 we eat the worlds most famous pie, Ted’s Chocolate/Haupia pie.
2:00pm we speed back to Diamond Head and surf for 1.5 hours. Super fun waves! Too easy!
4:30 we stop at Leonard’s Bakery. Good smell!
5:00pm we get to hotel. What a wonderful day! Big waves and big excitement.
A very challenging day and we will never forget it!
Thank you Nakazawa-san! Have a wonderful time in Hawaii and see you in Okinawa!
