peaceful morning nap time…
after lunch excitement time…
looking forward time…
dangerous zone time…
high flying time…
welcome to paradise time…
afternoon nap time…
my sleep time. goodnight…
Foiling: A Dangerous Hobby
一番最初のフォイル体験では、セス・モニーツがレッスンしてくれたんだ。8’6のSUPボードを貸してくれて、”できるよ”とだけ言ったんだ。だから僕ができるのかどうか確かめに沖に出た。
これが一番最初の波。まずはじめに、フォイルがなくてもSUPボードには乗れない。次に、説明もなかった。そして最後に、自信はゼロ。だから、立ち上がった時にロケットのようにボードが浮き上がるのが死ぬほど怖かった。でも、ちょっと好きな感じだった…
this is the last thing you want to do when you’re falling. it looks like i was doing my downward dog yoga pose, but i was actually thinking to myself “ok, this sharp foil blade is going to cut me in half very soon.”
that day was one of the most embarrassing moments of my life. but i liked it because i felt like a beginner again which was very humbling…
then the 2nd time i went foiling, i ended up in the Emergency Room at Straub Hospital. even more humbled and made me want to master this dangerous sport. if i quit then, that would have been the biggest regret of my life. and that’s why i kept on pushing forward.
one month later, i felt like a brand new man. humbled, happy, and most of all, FREE!!!!
NEVER SAY NEVER…
July 21, 2022 Hawaii Surf Report
The Green Room…
Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!
