my breakfast. 2 oranges and 1 apple. eat healthy!
good morning with your 6 am hawaiian surf report.
south: BIG! still going off! ala moana 3-4′ + and PERFECT!
north: i don’t know, i don’t care.
wind: tradewinds @ 10-20 MPH.
weather: cloudy becoming SUNNY!
forecast: south swell coming down but still SOLID! waves everyday!
happy summer!
plan: surf all day, surf all day, surf all day!
have a wonderful surfing day in hawaii.
この写真の女の子は、アンジェラ・マキ・バーノン。彼女は自分の目で見て自分の鼻で匂いをか がない限り、どれくらい被害を受けたかは理解出来ないと思う。ここは、“北泉”という有名なサーフポイント。いつになれば前の姿に戻れるか僕 には分からないよ。
Surf 2 rounds.
Surf 4 hours.
Catch 50 waves overhead.
Get barreled 9 times.
Run over 5 surfers.
Get run over 1 time.
Ding my board.
Get sunburned.
Meet friends.
Laugh.
Excitement.
Memories.
Take shower.
Watch this sunset driving home.
Do I have the best job in the world?
Yes, I think so.
Tomorrow?
Samasama in Indonesian means “same thing.”
Goodnight and see you in the water!
Live the life you love,
Love the life you live.
