
i was looking through some old galleries today and came across some cool photos. this was shikoku on august 31, 2009. that day was pretty dam good!!! i still can’t get tamaki-san’s barrel out of my head. i wish that was me…. haha..

this is kaishu’s father enjoying a barrel right in front of his house…

the last big day out at pipe, my friend chris won broke his bodyboard in 2 pieces. what? that was the first time i’ve seen something like that. how the heck can a sponge break into 2 pieces??? anyway, if you don’t know chris, he’s the one in the movie “North Shore” that made him famous. cool guy….

and last, reika noro is really photogenic. i took 162 photos of her today and i only had to delete 2. and that’s because it was out of focus. my bad. even for this photo, i was just testing out my camera. since the first time i met this girl, i knew she had the looks and talent to get to most places girls her age can only dream of. reika’s getting cuter and cuter and her surfing is getting better and better. mark my words, “this girls going to be famous.”
Photogenic….
Mentawai Bankvault's!!!
good morning. 7 am thursday morning. junky surf on the north shore again. cleaner than yesterday but still junky. town is almost flat. i seen some knee high sets yesterday when we were diving but today looks even smaller. perfect for diving again but my body is saying “no.” umm, what should i do today? i know what i should do. start working on go-naminori web magazine vol. 3. hey, if you know anybody that deserves to be interviewed, or have any ideas of what you want in vol. 3, please let me know. this magazine is for you and we want to feature what you want. the magazine can only get better and better because now we got the system down and know what our readers want to read. once again, thanks for the comments. i appreciate every single one of them…. have a nice day!!!
oh, just seen a waist high set at bowls, ummm, maybe go for a stand-up paddle session today. see you in the water…

when i wake up, the first thing i do is check the surf. if everywhere was junk or small, the next thing is check the diving conditions. north winds? flat waves? i call up kyle, and we go diving. pretty simple because i know kyle is up early doing the same thing.. haha…

north wind days are cold. we were freezing all day long. but when the sun comes out, it feels like paradise…

nothing beats coming into the city lights at night. the fun part is ending a great day. the not so fun part is washing the boat up in the cold…

my friend shinsuke matsukawa has been giving me the reports from the mentawai’s. this was bankvault’s yesterday. wow, i’m kind of jealous…. hope you get some good waves matsu. keep me posted!!! and wanna join our mentawai trip in april??? let me know….



