Going OFF!!!

good morning. 6:30 and the waves are going off!!! perfect backdoor/pipe right now. the contest should be on but i hope it isn’t. the swell is dropping and there are no winds. epic conditions on the north shore. town still has a small swell too. i’m going surfing!!! have a nice day….

everybody’s been asking “where’s all the sand??? here’s the answer. over there at pupukea. the sandbar is going out to the lineup. the next small clean day might be looking more like kirra….

i was over at tamura’s the other day and seen this bottle. it looked familiar. a friend gave me this as a present after i graduated from high school. i had no clue what it was and kept it under my bed for years and years. one day i was cleaning up because i was moving to japan back in 1992 and found it. my friend came over and offered me $700 cash for the bottle and box. i said “shoots” which means “yes” in pidgen language. come to find out, it was an expensive bottle of Remy Martin Louis XIII. a bottle on sale cost $1729.99. eeh???? i should have kept it. i heard the just the crystal bottle alone is worth $500. oh well….

i was watching the pipe contest yesterday and seen keito matsuoka get a sick pipe wave. he didn’t make this barrel so they scored him a 3.67. if he had made it, he probably would have gotten a 9.5. but it was ok because he made it through the heat anyway…. good luck tomorrow boys…

and last, wanted to thank kimura-san for this cool present he brought all over from bali. Jack-san is going on my wall!!! stoked!!!

during the winter months, the big goat fish come in. i know a few spots were i can go and almost guarantee they will be there. the only problem this year is that the waves have been too big and consistent. even in town, i can’t dive because of all the south swells. it might sound weird but i wish the waves on the south shore goes flat so i can go get some dinner. surfers would probably hate me for saying that. haha… but i have to say that this year has been an endless summer for town surfers….

this is another day. i got a couple of these in my freezer getting ready for a party!!!
oh, speaking of parties, there is a red sea ocean adventures and skin diver hawaii party going on this weekend, the 30th to be exact. it’s happening from 6-9 pm and i think it’s invitation only? i have to ask kyle about that. if it is, sorry. if it isn’t, you should come down for the fun. there will be all the top free divers from hawaii talking story and enjoying great food and entertainment. this party will have the nicest people on the island there. till this day, i still haven’t met an asshole diver. like i said, when your diving at depths we do, your dive buddy is your lifesaver and you better be nice to him. see you there!!!


diving is the most relaxing sport ever. to go down deep in the silent world and watch all the wildlife around you is amazing. i can’t get enough of the whales, dolphins, monk seals, turtles, fish, octopus, squid, sharks, and even jellyfish. it’s just everywhere and you don’t know what the heck you will see in a given day. so after long deep dives, i feel like i did 8 hours straight of yoga and on the way back to the harbor, i go into meditation. i reflect on the things that i seen that day, i’m in total peace, i feel like i’m flying, i’m….. then, “hey kirby, can you check the gas?” what???? am i dreaming??? no, kyle wakes me up and asks me to check the gas.. oh my gosh!!! haha… now i’m up, and ready ready for sashimi and beer[:?????????:][:?????????:]

hayato doesn’t meditate so here’s what i think he is thinking after diving that day. “gosh, how could i miss? that fish was right in front of me not even moving. i had 2 shots right at him. catching that GT is like getting barreled at waimea bay. when will be my next chance? will i ever even see a fish that big anymore? how long is kirby going to tease me? i won’t be able to sleep for a while. help!!!” haha… hayato, was i right? that’s what i thought the first time i missed mine. but don’t worry because that day will come and when it does, it will be 5x more rewarding. the only shitty thing is that until then, you won’t be sleeping good. haha…
*thanks kyle for the photos. and thanks for waking me up to check the gas. haha… and yes, hayato wants to go back there for another chance so give me a call when the waves drop. next time, let’s video it. see you at the party saturday night….