Every wave has a rainbow…

Good morning 4:15am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds up to 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

When the waves on the South shore are small, I just drive 40 minutes to the East and there will always be a head high wave.  Sometimes a very challenging wave, and sometimes a very perfect wave.  The only problem about this spot is that it’s very dangerous.  I think that’s why nobody surfs here?

Almost every wave will let you do a simple carve like this.  So you can do it over and over and it becomes muscle memory.  Then when you go surf a clean wave like Bowls, it becomes automatic.    

After doing my daily workout at home, it didn’t feel like it was enough.  I wanted to push a little harder so I went to the gym.  Gosh, the weights seem to be getting a lot heavier than before.  Haha.

All the Moniz kids were over last night so it was a good time to get one of Seth’s old boards out of my closet.  Seth rode this “superman” surfboard when he was 11 years old.  I kept it all these years because I knew one of the next generation would be so proud to ride it.  

This is the next generation.  Dream big kid!  Just like Uncle Seth, you can do it!

Another day in paradise…

Good morning 4:45am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and fun.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!