Wednesday October2日 2024年

Boys to Men

Taking kids out in the ocean is a risk.  At the end of the day, depending on their experience, they will either love it, or hate it.  So putting Ojiro on the nose of my board when he was so young was nerve racking.  One mistake and a kid will never want to surf again.

But for this kid, he enjoyed it.  He was only 8 years old and very brave.

After each ride, Ojiro would smile like this.  Thankfully, his first experience was a happy one.

Now at 16 years old, Ojiro is still smiling from start to finish.  I asked him “do you like surfing?”  He replied, “I LOVE surfing!”  Keep on surfing kid!

September 17, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

My second home…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Tako and Emmy

We found a tako house so I asked one of the girls to go down and try to get it out of the hole.

This is how you go down to the bottom.  Nice and slow.

She tickled the tako and ran out of breath so she had to go back up.  Haha.  Keep practicing girl!

It still amazes me how deep one can go if they see something they really want.  You push your limits to get the treasure.

This turned out to be a big perfect sea urchin.  Nice purple color and very fresh.

Cleaning Mayuki is a peaceful time for me.  It’s like washing a little baby.

The girls challenged Diamond Head this morning.  So good that they can adapt to every condition Mother Nature throws at them.

Still can’t believe Shogun won so many awards!  I really liked that drama from the storyline to the actors.  I’m going to watch it again.

Once again, congratulations to my cousin Shannon.  I wish Grandma and Grandpa Fukunaga were still alive to see your huge accomplishment.  The would be so proud of you!  It made me tear up…