The Owaki-san off the lip!

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore chest high and good.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I usually let my wax build up for many years before I scrape it off.  But once I do, the board feels fresh again.  It has a lighter feeling that brings it back to life again.

I had to take a drive to look for waves this morning.  I had a feeling where to go and when I arrived, it looked a lot better than I thought.

I kind of got excited and was on my first wave in less than a minute.  With nobody around, it turned out to be the best session I had in a while.  To surf a spot on a Sunday by yourself is a treat.

I stayed out a lot longer than I usually do.  As a surfer, it’s very hard to go in when you have the whole ocean all to yourself.  Now is the season where you have to move around.  Ala Moana won’t be good everyday like it is in the summer.  You have to drive around and search for that perfect wave.  And once you find it, it’s very rewarding…

Round 1:  Chest high sets, powerful, windy, bumpy, but so good!  Secret spot so nobody out!  

My private Sunday morning Boot Camp.  Freedom!