Round 1:  Dawn patrol in the dark again.  Waist high waves with perfect glassy conditions.  

All the local Uncles were out.  No visitors.

Matsui-san got out early and this was his first wave.  It was the best right of the morning.  So perfect and so beautiful.

I was following closely behind cheering him on.  The view I had as so amazing.

Then he went too fast and I couldn’t keep up.  

Round 2:  Still morning.  Still waist high but sunny and warm.

Surfing with Oku-san after our last meeting 6 years ago.  So good to see him again so happy and healthy.  

Fun waves, warm morning, and long rides.  Good to surf with all you boys today!

Mateus is so excited about fishing.  I called him yesterday and asked him what he was doing.  He said he was going to the beach with his cousins.  Then he asked “why?”  I said that’s ok but I just called to ask you to go fishing.  He said “ok, I want to go fishing.”  I drove to the beach and he was waiting for me on the sidewalk.  He jumped in my car with his fishing pole and tackle.  I drove him to a place where we can fish and learn about the different species.  The very first time he put his pole in the water, he caught this aholehole!  You should have seen the smile in his face.  It was so precious!  

Aholehole is by far my favorite fish to fry in a pan.  It turns out so crispy that you can eat the whole thing, including the bones.  Mateus ended up catching so many but we released it back into the ocean.  As much as I’m teaching him about fishing, I’m also teaching him how to be responsible.  

Then he caught this “mamo.”  This fish used to be eaten by Hawaiian chiefs.  By the end of the day, Mateus was tying his own hook,  putting on his own bait, catching his own fish, and taking the hook out of the fishes mouth.  Next time we’re going to catch, clean, and cook.  I can’t wait for that!

Hey Sasaki-san, welcome to surfing in Hawaii!   You surfed great!

Taking off and looking straight at the beautiful Diamond Head.

Bottom turning and getting ready for the first turn.

A beautiful morning surf with Sasaki-san.  Longest waves of his life!