When I was a teenager, there was no such thing as grabbing your rail in the barrel.  Nobody invented it yet.  So we would do this “layback” where you lay your body back into the wave and watch the lip go over your head while in the barrel.  It’s pretty hard to do but so far, I’ve got some of my best backside barrels of the summer doing the “layback.”  This is in the Big Bowl with photo taken by Neal Miyake…

Yesterday once more.  Perfect waves and nobody out.  

The best rights in a long time.  Nonstop clean offshore barrels all morning long.

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
The sun is back!
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Around 200,000 houses lost electricity yesterday.  Some for hours, and some are going to be for weeks.  I was lucky to only lose it for 5 hours.  When I drove to the beach this morning, the whole Kaimuki was still without electricity.  It was pitch dark and had a scary feeling.  

You never see Kaimuki like this.  It looked haunted.  I was driving very slowly because it was scary. It was dark like this all the way to Waikiki.

Then we get to Bowls and the parking lot was completely empty!  You will never see it like this either.  I love it!

I checked the water quality and was surprised.  It was a lot cleaner than I thought.  And the waves were sooo good!!!!  Head high, perfect off shore, and lots of waves.  This is a typhoon swell with nobody around!  

Hayashi-san was very lucky because on a normal day, there would be 50 surfers out.  The waves kept on coming and coming.

There were still some big sets that you had to dive under.  I felt like I was in Japan surfing a typhoon.  As for the water quality, it was much cleaner than the cleanest day in Shonan, and much much cleaner than the cleanest day in Changu.  So yes, it was very clean compared to that.  

So stoked to see Hayashi san score this rare typhoon swell in Hawaii.  He caught so many good waves and had so much fun.