OMG, the North shore was so good today!  A building North swell with South winds making Laniakea as perfect as it can be.  Solid 6′ and like a dream.  I paddled out with one thing in mind, “go out, hunt, and just go!”  There were 100 surfers out today so I think I did pretty good catching 4 waves in 30 minutes.  It was EPIC!  

Stopped by Pipeline to watch the contest.  Bummer the waves weren’t that good.  It wasn’t looking like Pipeline but more like a beach break.  

Joshua didn’t make his heat today but he did qualify for the 2026 WSL Challenger Series.  Rated in the Top 5 of Hawaii and Tahiti.  Congratulations Joshua!  

Thank you Mighty Mouse for the photos.  Can you believe it was storming rain, cloudy, dark, and flooding everywhere?  But once underwater, it was as beautiful as it gets.  And I think the tako were surprised to see us out there.  We were probably the only 2 divers on the whole island in the water that day.  Nobody else was crazy enough to even try.  

We were so lucky to find a new tako spot.  There were tako and shells everywhere!  

Tako are very smart so you kind of have to outsmart them.  It’s like a game trying to get them out of the hole.  The funny thing is you don’t know how big it is until it comes out.  This one was pretty big and aggressive.  And it was also delicious…

Back to flying…

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 4-8′ and good.
Pipeline Pro finals day ON!
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head waist high.
South winds at 10mph.
Sun is coming back.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I needed a 1 day break from the ocean so I decided to stay indoors.  I still woke up at 3:30am but instead of going surfing, I spent more time on my daily routines.  After exercising, stretching, and yoga, I end it with this “Pincha Mayurasana” pose.  I can feel the blood rushing from my legs to my head.  It feels so good!  I didn’t miss a day of this the past 7 years and I plan to continue to do it everyday as long as I’m alive.

Just like surfing, you need to do this over and over to make it muscle memory.  The more you do it, the more your body remembers it.  When I first started yoga 20 years ago, this was my goal.  Pretty stoked.  After this, I jumped in the sauna for 30 minutes, took a cold shower, and it was still 7am.  Tomorrow I will surf longer to make up for today.  Can’t wait!