Round 1: The swell came up again today. Much bigger and better than yesterday. Uncle Ray taking off on a big one! 
Kai on a perfect barreling wave. The conditions were so good.
Mighty Mouse was getting some really good waves on her own. 
If you put in the time and effort like this girl, you will get rewarded with the best waves of your life. 
I was on the outside and when I duck dove under a wave, I duck dove so deep that my hand smashed the reef. There was a lot of water moving today so it was very shallow before the waves came rolling over you. 
Round 2: After this mornings surf, I knew that Big Rights will be good later in the day. The perfect swell direction, off shore winds, and barreling. So I took a nap and headed straight there. I didn’t even check the waves. I just parked my car and paddled out. 
I went out there for one reason, to get barreled! There is nothing in this world that beats the feeling of being in the barrel. After a few, I was content.
My last wave was really good so I came in with the biggest smile on my face. There is something about Big Rights that makes me happy. Maybe that’s why I’ve been surfing out there for the past 42 years.
There is a hurricane heading straight to Hawaii. More swell is on the way! The best summer ever continues…
