Riding in the dark…

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore chest high.
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head waist high.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I went to look at Diamond Head this morning and it was super small.  The biggest sets were stomach high but very long rides.  There were only a few surfers out and it looked fun.

So I get back in my car, take a long drive, and arrive at my secret spot.  The rocks were so slippery but I couldn’t wait to surf because it was only me again!  Thank goodness I didn’t fall.  I was so excited to try out Joshua Moniz’s board.

When I first paddled out on it, it felt like a toothpick.  It was very narrow and thin that I had a hard time balancing on it.  But once I took off on my first wave, it felt like magic.  Very sensitive and very responsive.  I felt like a teenager again!

I went out this morning to challenge myself so that’s why I took this board.  Surfing felt so alive again!

HIC shaped by Kerry Tokoro.  OMG, Josh is going to have a hard time getting this surfboard back from me.  Haha.  I’m definitely going to try it on better waves.

Came home to a beautiful rainbow.  Rain, sun, showers, and clouds.  I love winter in Hawaii!

The Owaki-san off the lip!

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore chest high and good.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!