Sunday September14日 2025年

Hurricane Swell Tuesday

Round 1:  The waiting game.

Ala Moana Bowls shoulder high and good.

JJ going fast!

Mighty Mouse pumping!

The blue hole!

Round 2:  Secret spot going off this afternoon!  The girls and I scored the hurricane swell!

Surf Lessons are NOT ALLOWED!

Cloud 9 in the Philippines is a world class wave.  It’s a perfect right hand barrel that breaks over a very shallow reef.  I was very fortunate to surf there before the world discovered it.  At that time, nobody was there and nobody was out.  I’ve only surfed it when it’s dangerous so I can’t imagine beginners trying to surf there.  Throughout the years, it’s been a premier surf destination where millions go searching for that perfect barrel.  Along with that comes locals, surf shops, surf schools, and surf lessons.  My friend went there last year and told me there were so many people out that it was ridicules.  Lots of surf schools, lessons, and beginners trying to get barreled.  He said it was so dangerous that he didn’t even surf.

Well, after lots of complaints, fights, and accidents, the locals made their own rule.

  1. Beginner surf lessons not allowed at Cloud 9 surf spot.
  2. Surf shops are NOT ALLOWED to rent out surfboards to beginner surfers without instructors.

My opinion:  I think these rules are a good idea.  I think everyone should start off at a beginner spot and work theirselves up to the premier spots like this.  These rules will work in the Philippines, but will never work in Hawaii.  So when you’re pulling into a barrel at Pipeline, don’t be surprised to see a beginner with a Costco surfboard dropping in front of you and going straight.  Haha.

 

September 9, 2025 Hawaii Surf Report

Rocky at Rockpiles on the Rail!

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light East winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!