Round 1 at Bowls this morning.  Chest high sets and pretty good.  Drove past Diamond Head this afternoon for Round 2 and it was looking good.

My sisters backyard is amazing.  Perfect for the kids to slide down, ride bike, wrestle, and play in the stream.  Can’t beat it.

And also a gathering place for the huge family and friends.  I feel so old now watching these kids growing up into fine young men.  They are all respectful, strong minded, and very kind hearted.

This summer was a good one.  Got to see some amazing displays of nature.

Surfed Big Rights way more than I did last year.  Much bigger and better.

Being a tourist must be pretty fun in Hawaii.

Back in the Day:  Toda-san with the big wahoo caught in the Indian Ocean.  Sashimi party followed!

Enjoying each and every ride…

Good morning 3:20am.
North shore coming up to 4-6′ later today.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

So happy to surf with Sato-san this morning.  We’ve known each other for decades.  Surfing together in Shikoku and Hawaii throughout the years.  The waves were small today so he used one of my favorite mid-length boards.  So stoked to see him catching so many waves on it!  

Every surfer older than me inspires me.  And it makes me realize that the ocean keeps us forever young.  

Sato-san caught a couple long lefts at Bowls all the way to the wall.  So stoked to be riding waves together all these years!

Isaiah Moniz by Neal Miyake.  This is what you call power surfing!  

Rocky by Neal Miyake.  This is a dream wave from the main peak at Bowls.  

Back in the old days, I never use to see monk seals.  Maybe once a year?  Now days, I see a monk seal once a week.  Pretty cool…