good morning. 6:20am from rocky point. waves dropped a lot. it looks 2-4′ right now. everywhere should be really good. got a NSSA down at sandy beach so all the groms will be there. stoked. north shore is the place to be and i can’t wait to get in the water. have a nice day…

yesterday evening, we packed a cooler with beer, walked a few steps to the beach, and watched an awesome sunset. i had my steinlager pure in my left hand, and my camera in my right hand. rocky point sunset rules….

no green flash but green bottles were flowing… i wish i could watch the sunset from the beach every day… it was so beautiful…..

then it was back to the go-naminori house for some beers and burritos. no need cholos or taco bell. make your own…

when ever i go to the dove house, the neighbors dogs bark at me and scare the shit out of me. this day, they were barking and when i looked at them, this is what they were doing. dogs will always be dogs. haha..

went for a few late drinks last night at the izakaya called Ojiya. it’s across the street of the convention center next to quiksilver. my first time and definately not my last. the raw oysters are the best i’ve eaten on this island. big and creamy. $3/each, not bad. oh, wanted to say sorry to this japanese girl named mari. i’ve been bumping into her all over this island and everytime i see her, i think she’s mito. so i just walk up to her and say “what’s up!!”. then i look good, and it’s not mito. i feel so stupid…. i don’t even know her. but now she knows me. she must think i’m the weird guy from hawaii that walks up to any girl and start talking to them like i’ve known them for years. next time i see her, i’m going to take a photo and show you how much they look alike… honto ni gomenasai…

so there i was sitting next to bobby higa eating my creamy oyster and enjoying my asahi super dry. then he tells me, want to see my scar from my snowboard accident surgery? i said “no”. but he insisted and rolled up his jeans and showed it to me. my oyster didn’t taste too good after that….

i had 3 hours of sleep last night. but when the waves are pumping, i’m surfing. surfed 6-8′ solid sunset this morning. rode my 7’4. so there i was on the outside looking for my first big wave of this season, i see this big 8′ mountain set coming in and everybody was too far over. i was right in the spot so i turned around and paddled my ass off. the strong off shore winds blowing in my eyes, i free fall to the bottom, then start to set up for a bottom turn…. yeah, i was so stoked that i was going to get an unreal wave off the start….. but there he was, satoshi kubota dropping in on me. i had to go straight and got pounded. thanks satoshi…. i owe you one… haha….
*anyway, waves dropped this evening and so did the buoy. i know where the spot will be tomorrow morning but i ain’t saying anything. i’ll be out there first light. have a great evening….[:Zzz:][:Zzz:]

BIG rocky point 2pm.