hello hello… today was such a nice day in town. big north/west swell, north winds? yup, the south shore is were to be. there wasn’t a cloud in the sky, the waves were perfect off shore, and we surfed and surfed…

first check diamond head but too many people. surf diamond head with 50 guys? or surf somewhere with just our group? easy call. so the 9 of us in 4 cars headed to one of my secret spots. i was hoping that none of the boys seen me take all those people out but i got busted. sorry mark….

today was probably the coldest surfing day in the history of hawaii. we were all freezing our asses off. so lunch was a no brainer. PHO….

i ordered the oxtail soup and it was so dam good!!!

then we went for our 2nd round. the waves were head high and cold. yeah, dam cold… satoshi had the wave of the day. he dropped into a 6′ freak set, did a bottom turn, pulled into a huge barrel, ran over 7 local surfers, came out, did a cutback, and his fin cut his foot. matchi had to carry his board up the cliff and had to take the car down to pick him up. we were almost going to call the ambulance…

here’s hayato aiding satoshi’s foot. that’s the story satoshi wishes that happend. the truth is, as satoshi was coming out of the water, he stepped on vana, panicked, and was going to go to the hospital. what he should have done was to piss on it. luckily i had vinegar in my car so that worked too. a 99 cent bottle of vinegar helped 6 people already. what a great investment. if you ever step on vana in hawaii, call me. i’ll either piss on it for you, or you can use some of my vinegar. what ever is better for you.. haha….
**wanted to thank tokura-san, hayato, matchi, satoshi, kenji, angela maki, local motion maki, and salina for an awesome surfing day in town. also spotted muramatsu-san and team RLM at diamond head, and shuji kasuya and kouhei chiba at kaikos. you can run but you can’t hide… haha.. happy surfing! same thing tomorrow….

today diamond head going off!!!

good chilly saturday morning. i think this is the first time we got north winds this winter season. it’s freezing cold!! the waves are junky and stormy on the north shore again but town is looking fun. i’m guessing diamond head is the best spot today? 2′, perfect off shore, and a lot of waves. and probably a lot of people. but it’s all good because it’s good to share waves with everybody right? i like to share waves so much but i like to be in front. some people call that dropping in but not me, i call it sharing… go out and share today.. see ya…

we were surfing this secret island spot in east indonesia back in september. then this 14′ catamaran pulls up with 2 surfers from australia. there was no motor on the boat and i can’t believe how this little thing made it all the way to indonesia. the guy and girl said it took them 2 months. this is what you call “hard core traveling”….

been watching the news on president bush recently and he’s not that popular. i would be pretty bummed if somebody on the other side of the world dressed up like this mocking me. my feelings would be hurt…. ouch…