good morning. 6:30am monday morning. still got some waves in town. see 20 guys out at bowls waiting for something. didn’t see a set yet but it’s probably head high. looking at lani’s now and there’s some small waves out there. got a couple guys out ripping up the waist high clean surf. light winds and pretty nice everywhere. still waiting for a set to roll in at bowls. there’s hardly any white water so i think it came down a lot. oh wait, just seen a 3′ set. that’s good enough for me. it’s the start of the work week so i better go to work. see you in the water….

did you watch the contest online? i did. and what i saw was some amazing surfing. the hawaiians were on fire and nobody could stop them. 1st place went to kekoa bacalso, 2nd to dustin barca, and 3rd went to joel centeio. in fact 5 out of the 8 quarter finalists were hawaiians so i watched every heat from then on….

kekoa was like the dark horse. not too many people know who he is and not too many people know he can surf. but this kid surfed better than anybody else in the whole event. he was on fire and taking down big names on the way to the final. then he peaked in the final and won the 6 star event. big contest? oh yeah…. i hope kekoa makes the WCT next year because there will be a lot of people saying “where the heck did this kid come from?” he’s that good. congrats kekoa….

and last, these two kids could win a big contest in the future too. surf contest of dive contest. check out the abalone and tako hand picked in japan. gosh, i wish i was there… shun, bring your mask and fins when you come to hawaii because we’re going diving. i’m taking you and seth 30′ underwater and you kids will feel so comfortable down there that you can jun ken po…. see ya soon….

good evening. went down to check the waves this morning. wasn’t as big as everybody was anticipating but good enough for me. overhead, sunny sky, warm water. what else can you ask for?

passed up big rights and went to meet up with photographer kondo-san for a morning photo session. had a good time surfing with shuji kasuya and nick mita. it was a beautiful day and the photos will probably be beautiful too. kondo-san’s photos are always beautiful….

they held the point panic bodysurfing championships yesterday and today. the waves? epic…. i was telling nick that we use to surf out there back in the days. in fact, we use to surf out there all the time. yeah, if you paddle out there with tony moniz, it’s cool. but if you paddle out there by yourself, you better run before a big hawaiian bodysurfer grabs your leash, head buts you, breaks off your fins, then sends you in. then once you get in, the police will arrest you and take your surfboard away. so i wouldn’t try it if i were you. or if you do, let me know so i can watch… haha… but really, i seen it all before and it ain’t pretty….

i got home from surfing around 10am. it was still a beautiful day so when my friend called me to go banana boat riding, i couldn’t resist. hook up my boat, launch from ala wai, check the surf on the way out, and have a blast in the ocean…

i passed by bowls, big rights, kewalo’s, and point panic twice. the waves didn’t look half as good as the morning. maybe that’s why there were only half the crowd as this morning. or is everybody surfed out? i don’t think so. not in hawaii…. anyway, this is big rights from the back….
**checked the waves this evening and looked like it came down a lot from this morning. seen head high sets at bowls with epic conditions right before dark…. tomorrow? don’t know. south shore is too hard to predict. you just have to check back in the morning… good night…

good morning, 6:15am. the waves didn’t come up that much. 15 guys out at bowls with 4 guys sitting at the big bowl. looks headhigh, or the same size as yesterday. the park is packed. i see 70 guys scattered around like ants. probably no parking but i’m going down anyway. i just need one barrel to make my day. so once i get one, i’m out of there…. have a great father’s day….
**found this on youtube. bodyboarder vs. surfer. i thought this was a joke but i was real. freakin classic… surfers, longboarder, bodyboarders, and stand-up paddlers. can’t we all get along? it’s all about respect. if we respect one another, we can get along and share waves. just because you have a bigger board, that doesn’t mean you can paddle out and catch every wave from the outside. if that’s the case, i’m going to take my boat out to big rights and start doing off the lips on it. that wouldn’t be cool right? we had a talk about that topic yesterday at big rights and i still feel the same as most local surfers. i don’t give a shit who you are, if you show respect to everybody, your cool. if you want to be an ass and try to catch every wave, go home. there shouldn’t be any fights in the ocean or on the beach, i go there to relax. not to see shit like this. if you want to fight, go lock yourself in your car and start punching yourself in the face. now that’s pretty cool…