good evening. checked the waves this morning and right before i left my house, i seen ants marching out to bowls and ala moana park. i guess the news was out on this new south swell. it was packed with surfers so i headed to diamond head. thank goodness for the road construction there so it kept surfers away. not me. i just pulled my car into the lookout and bummed out some tourist trying to stop for a photo. parked my car, and paddled out to lighthouse where it was firing… super good waves with a super good vibe… no longboarders, no drop ins, and no tourist. i had an awesome session….
**waves this evening came up even more. seen some solid overhead sets at bowls and the park. know what that means… yeah, big rights tomorrow…. see ya…

jeannie chesser is the bomb. super cool, rips, and doesn’t take shit. i’ve known her since i started surfing. she’s one of the best surfboard airbrush designers in the world. she’s battling cancer and has such a positive attitude about it. always smiling and enjoying life…. see her in the water, better not drop in…. check out jeannie’s website by CLICKING HERE….

and horay!!! obama wins!!! hillary clinton finally gave up and went home. obama made history for being the first black to lead the democratic party. and also made history for being the first person out of hawaii to almost lead our country. i said almost. one more obstacle but if obama becomes president, he told me that he’s going to start surfing… haha.. just joking….

and last, i called my travel agent today to book my ticket to japan. she told me it costs $1,269. what???? are you kidding??? so i came home and tried to figure out how i was going to get there. problem solved…. just call me “rocket man”….

good morning. waves in town pumping!!! finally the south swell is here. seen some head high sets at bowls with perfect conditions. and there’s not that many people out surfing today. i’m out of here… see you in the water….

i was at kapiolani park yesterday evening and was in awe on how beautiful it was. probably the most under rated park in the world…

the sunsets from there are pretty nuts….

and the the king wins again… kelly slater won the fiji pro. i watched the final yesterday and he was unstoppable. will he retire?? with a 900 point lead in the ratings, i don’t think so…. i just wish he’d stop saying he’s going to retire all the time..
**and last, check out this clip from snappers the other night. this is russ and ciara trinidad… uncle and niece…. they play there again this thursday night so be there or be square….

good evening. they were paving the road again today at diamond head so half the parking was closed. i drove by and luckily found one open so i had to surf. the waves just looked too dam good. paddled out to cliffs and caught a couple, then ended up at lighthouse. 4 guys out and freaking good waves… some overhead sets and so ripable… i wish they close the parking everyday there, just to keep the crowd down… this is how it use to be back in the good old days… fun waves with no crowds… but once the parking is open again, goodnight….

driving around the island looking at all the mangos growing makes me pretty happy. happy because i know that hawaii has the best mangos in the world. and i know that when these guys get ripe, i’m eating mangos and drinking mango smoothies everyday…. so if you see some guy around 5’10, 165lbs, dark skin, wearing von zipper glasses and a spice tshirt picking mangos in your back yard, that ain’t me…. haha…

check out this new clothing company called “SLUT”. yeah, slut. i can’t even say what that word means in english but it ain’t good. and some company in italy made a clothing company and this is their ladies wear advertisement. check out the cute bunnies…. sluts…..

and last, the picture of the week. this is how they get married and do weddings in china. shit, check out that backdrop… i almost pissed in my pants when i seen this. by the way, did you guys know that i’m a wedding photographer willing to travel??? haha…. take it easy….

and last last, backdoor enforcer kai garcia aka “kaiborg” is going in the ring to fight. it’s happening at the end of june and i’ll be there cheering him on. kaiborg was always nice to me and i will always remember what he told me a couple of years ago “if you can catch waves out at backdoor, you can catch waves anywhere in the world, right kirby?” i said “right”.. what else was i supposed to say??? haha… go kaiborg!!!