don’t take shit. stand your ground….

good wed. morning. 7:30am and i couldn’t get up early this morning. my eyes opened but my body didn’t want to move. but now i’m up so i’m getting ready to go surf. checking pipe now and it’s looking 2-4′ with 20 guys out. i’m wondering if they will run the backdoor shootout? if they do, i’m not going. if they don’t, um…. well, the swell in town is pretty much gone. still some ankle snappers and looking clean. bad weather coming again this weekend so get out and enjoy day 7 of 2009. see you somewhere around this island… have a nice day…

jeannie chesser sent me an email about a month ago saying that she was going to airbrush a surfboard for president obama. i thought she was joking. i was wrong. glenn pang shaped it, and jeannie did the hawaiian flag airbrush. sick!!! i hope president obama hangs this on the wall behind his desk in the white house. or better, i hope president obama uses it to surf someday. that would be awesome dude…

and last, wanted to say hello to a couple of people in japan. this is masashi-san’s beautiful daughter. so cute….

and wanted to say hello to hosaka-san over there in osaka. keep on traveling!! and keep on surfing!!!
**and last, been getting emails from youtube saying that i’m violating copyright laws by using artists songs with their permission. gosh, i swear i asked elton john, the cars, steel pulse, jason mraz, and others to use their songs in my videos. and they all said “shoots brah”. maybe i was dreaming…. anyway, here is one of the vids that got deleted by youtube. but now, it’s back uploaded using another artist. it’s just a matter of time when i get another email. oh well, life goes on… enjoy part 2 of the awesome trip to cloud 9 in 2007. it seemed like 10 years ago….

welcome to jan. 6th 8pm. only 6 days in 2009 and it feels like a month already. the energizer bunny is keep on going, and going… 1st surf check..

diamond head at 8:30am. head high sets and pretty clean. lighthouse was the spot and everybody must have known because there were 15 guys out. forget that…

9am at bowls. the waves were pretty dam good. i was waiting for a set to take a photo when this couple started hugging on the beach. i thought that was pretty cool. the waves were chest high and super fun. not too many guys out but it got crowded towards the end. so there i was thinking where to go for a 2nd session. it was hot and the winds came onshore along with some dark clouds. i thought the north shore would be raining and onshore too but we went out anyway….

2pm at backdoor/pipeline. oh my gosh!!! i was wrong. the waves were perfect off shore and super sunny. and get this, bowls was more crowded then pipe. and i’m not joking. there were only 8 guys out. i paddled out and seen a brazilian boogie boarder and longboarder at the peak. yeah, no locals… i dragged imai-san out to his first session at the notorious pipeline and he caught some good waves. it was so shallow and i’m glad we both made it back to the beach alive… right place at the right time? yes, 6 days straight…. where the heck is everybody?

and wanted to thank kinsan for taking my new years barrel the other day at backdoor. 2009 new years day will be a day to remember for me. and so will the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th… like i said before. SURF YOUR DREAM and LIVE EACH DAY LIKE IT WILL BE YOUR LAST. i’m going to sleep because i can’t wait till tomorrow….
***and last, i’ve been getting so many emails recently that it’s almost impossible to keep up. i promise i will get back to everyone but it might take a while the way this year is going. i really don’t like to sit in front of my computer anymore. as you all know, i’d rather be outdoors. and i refuse to get an iphone. but there is one person that i’d like to take this time out to say hello too. his name is Jared Yoshio Katakura who’s a surfer/diver and who is hearing impaired. he contributes to the hearing impaired communities in hawaii and japan, which i think is awesome. he’s been reading my blog and telling his friends about it, friends like eiko-san. Jared, i hope we can meet sometime in the future. in fact, i know we will. keep up the good vibe and hope all your dreams come true. mahalo…