good evening. i surfed diamond head lighthouse early this morning. gosh, it was perfect!!! 4′ and doubling up perfect rights. a couple of guys said that yesterday was even better. perfect swell direction, perfect winds, and perfect everything for lighthouse. that was the spot for sure today. check out how clean it was. oh, wanted to say sorry to the guy i dropped in on my last wave. i had to come in. really…

my niece and nephews came over for lunch. i just love listening to all their surf stories….

my brother bought a new puppy. i can hear it barking 24 hours a day and it’s driving everybody in the neighborhood nuts, including me… does anybody know how to make a dog stop barking? please tell me if you do because my brother sure doesn’t know how…. i don’t like sleeping in my own house with earplugs…

9-6pm working in the hot sun. that’s what i did today. doing construction is pretty fun and relaxing. when this project is done, the first thing going in there is a barbecue grill….

and last, check out the catch from yesterday’s diving session… video coming soon….

good morning. 6:15am aloha friday. got some pretty good waves in town. 3′ solid with semi-clean conditions. 7 guys out at rockpiles and 15 out at bowls. bowsl will probably get more packed today because of the kids practicing for the big contest out there this weekend. gosh, i fell asleep at 8pm last night. i was so tired from all the diving excitement yesterday. i even had nightmares about sharks. gosh, i will never get that images of those sharks we seen out of my head. it didn’t seem real but it was. i was thinking that if i didn’t see that shark heading full speed straight for my brother, kyle, and shawn, what would have happened? would it have backed off? would it have attacked? would my brother have fainted in the water if he looked up and seen it coming straight for him? haha… seeing things like that makes me really think. i know that wasn’t the first time it’s happened. it probably happens all the time but we just don’t see it. surfing and diving has it’s risks and sharks is just one of them. surf and dive safe…..

toru-san runs surf garage. i think it’s one of the best surf shops here in hawaii. why? it’s kind of like japanese style. toru-san’s there everyday, well, after surfing bowls. hi knows his stuff about boards and equipment. his staff is pretty amazing. an pretty too. haha. and you can actually store your board there rather than spend a lot of money and hassles taking it back and forth to japan. and the best thing about surf garage is that i always feel welcomed when i walk in there….

last time i went in there, akoi-san was telling me about these paintings that just came in. some girl out on the north shore makes these and it’s pretty awesome. the same girl that designed this years jack johnson’s kokua festival poster. i wish i had some space on my wall for one of these….
click here for the link to SURF GARAGE…

good evening. pulled up to haleiwa at 5:45am for a dive. checked the waves and it was actually pretty fun. waist high perfect sheet glass waves. it looked super fun and nobody was out…

gosh, i wish i had my board with me….. what kind of surfer am i? haha….
anyway, we went diving on the north shore all day today. we got some big fish, and some big stories….. we got chased out of the water two times big huge sharks. first was on our first dive of the morning. jumped in, and everybody was spearing fish. had 2 straped on my belt, my brother had one on his floater, and kyle just speared a big ulua or “GT”. i went down to stalk another fish and i could hear kyle yelling “shark”. i didn’t see it so i really didn’t pay attention. i see sharks all the time so i continued diving. then my brother came and told me that the shark was big! as i looked off to the distance, i seen this huge shadow. i had to open my eyes more because i couldn’t believe how big it was. shit! shark!! i started yelling “shark”… i say 12′ plus and thick…. my brother told me that it could have been a great white… oh my gosh… anyway, after some excitement, we got on the boat, drove 50 yards around the corner, and started diving again. yeah, all us divers think that sharks can’t swim…. pretty stupid yeah? i could just feel something watching us…. then mid day, we went out the the deep blue to look for big fish. we all took turns driving the boat because the current was too strong. one guy driving, three guys diving. it came my turn. i was on the boat looking out to the horizon when i seen what i thought was a black bird flying low. it kept coming straight for us and as it got closer, i realized it wasn’t a bird. it was a freaking big shark fin sticking up out of the water coming full speed to us. shit, i was like out of the movie jaws or something. i started yelling “shark, shark, shark”. the thing was making a bee line straight for us. i was tripping… with 3 guys in the water with dead fish strapped on their waist and spreading dead fish all around to attract big fish, i thought we were in trouble. as they started swimming back to the boat, the fin disappeared underwater. more scary. got the guys back on the boat, went down 50 yards and jumped to do the same thing again. yeah, we still believe that sharks can’t swim…. hahah… wait, i shouldn’t laugh. i might get bachi….anyway, i took some pretty cool video clips and photos but am too tired to download them. but if you want to see how we dive here in hawaii, check back soon….. we all got back safe, got lots of fish, and can’t wait to do it all over again…. surfers and divers are alike… just can’t get enough….good night….