good morning. HAPPY MAY DAY!! MAY DAY IS LEI DAY IN HAWAII!! waves in town going off again!!! i can see lines and lines of swell coming into bowls. looks 4′ and perfect. i think today has the best conditions so get out there and enjoy. north shore still has waves too. heard laniakea was 5′ and epic yesterday. waves for everyone…. see you in the water…
**i had a one hour wait at this local train station in thailand while waiting for my train. it was then when i walked around checking out and trying out the weird food there. nobody spoke english so i didn’t know what the heck i was eating. most food i got for free. the local people just wouldn’t take my money. they were so kind and giving. or maybe they just wanted me to try it? i don’t know but the people were so warm hearted and i felt so welcomed there. most of the things i tried i couldn’t video because i was by myself. but i had my camera on when one lady offered me this weird looking fruit. come to find out, that weird looking fruit was durian. yeah, that stinky fruit that’s not allowed in some areas in town because it’s so stink. if i knew what it was, i probably wouldn’t have tried it. but i wasn’t sure so i gave it a try. and to this day, that smell lurks in my mouth. i’m surprised i didn’t throw up…. i would never ever eat durian again…. even if somebody paid me too…. no way…. check out part 2 of many parts to come…

good evening… surfed for over 4 hours today. big rights was pretty fun in the morning. over head and clean conditions. got a few barrels so i was stoked. nobody was out when i got out then when i was about to go in, all the boys came out. ronnie, cedric, nick, and others. i went in to eat lunch and have my brownie with a glass of milk. i knew it was a matter of time when they would all come in so i waited and paddled back out at 2pm. sure enough, they just came in. good timing!!! the waves got bigger and better. only kyle and a few other guys out. score!!! the waves were pumping. got barreled again and went in after 4pm. then as i was paddling in, ronnie, nick, and more of the boys were paddling out. i gave them a handshake with a big smile on my face… i guess they saw my last barrel… haha… i had a great day surfing today and can’t wait till tomorrow to do it all over again… thanks to all the boys out at big rights for sharing that special wave… and sorry if i caught too many today. i know you guys understand that i haven’t surfed for a while… right?? see you tomorrow….

this is bowls at 11am. no parking, a lot of surfers, and perfect peeling lefts. i seen my nephew micah in the parking lot and asked him how the waves were. he told me “shitty”. i wanted to give him a good scoldings…. that kid doesn’t know what “shitty” is….

as i was pulling out of bowls, i seen this truck with the coolest sticker on the back window. it said “I just want to get barreled”. i pulled on the side to ask where she got that sticker from but the girl was talking on the phone so i couldn’t get her attention. gosh, i really want that sticker… oh, and wanted to say hi to the japanese guy and girl that pulled on the side of me at the stop light. thanks for checking out my blog… sorry i couldn’t stop to talk. the light turned green so had to go.. hope to see you somewhere sometime again…. mahalo…

yet another surfer killed from a shark. that’s two people dying from shark attacks this week. gosh, that’s really sad….

and last, don’t forget that we’re at war right now. even though this week has been the most deadliest for american troops, the innocent get caught in the crossfire too. during war, nobody wins. we all lose…

good morning. 6:45am on this windy cloudy high surf advisory tuesday morning. bad weather again but the waves look good. solid 4′ in town with bowls the biggest. got 12 guys sitting at the big bowl. the park is packed and looks a little smaller. heard big rights was packed all day yesterday. well, now it’s going to be more crowded because i’m out there. see you in the water…. oh, by the way, north shore got some little waves breaking this morning. everybody go surf!!!

did you know i can bake? felt like eating something sweet so went to longs to pick up some brownie mix. mixed it up and stick it in the oven at 350 degrees.

30min later, take it out of the oven…

and ate a warm piece with a glass of cold milk… then got a sugar rush and couldn’t sleep last night….
**when ever i’m in wakayama, kimura-san always takes me to the fishing port right in front of his house. i like to hang out there and see what the fishermen bring in. lobsters? fish? shirasu? tako? i don’t know, everyday is different. that’s the cool thing…. check out this days catch….