good evening… gosh, what an awesome day of surfing. surfed for 4 hours and had a lot of fun. i learned how to surf at this secret spot called seconds about 27 years ago. and i haven’t been back there since high school. well, until today… checked it this morning and it was perfect with only 3 guys out. from the paddle out, to my first wave, to the walk back in, the memories just kept on coming and coming. remembering riding my bike down to carter’s house after the school bell rang, racing out to the lineup, surfing till evening, the shark stories, our little surf gang, racing back to carter’s house for the shower, and everything. all good memories of being a kid. i even pulled into a closeout barrel just to see how it felt. gosh, i felt like i was in high school again. had a great memorial session….

the weather was cloudy today but who cares? the waves were going off all day long…. i’m surfed out but still need more….

i was hanging out with ito-san and goto-san from hiroshima all day today. these two guys started surfing 5 years ago and are super stoked on it… it was cool to see them enjoying surfing as much as they did….

down in tahiti was crazy a few days ago. big and dangerous… this is the same swell that’s hitting our south shores right now and the best is yet to come. i’m getting up early tomorrow and surfing all dam day. please stay out of my way.. haha… see you in the water….

CLICK HERE FOR THE CRAZY ASS VIDEO OF TAHITI….

and last, thank you so much naohiro and family for bringing the fresh yamari shirasu from wakayama. oh my gosh…. i’m so happy…..

good morning. 6:45am and the waves are up. chest/shoulder high and on the rise. i think thursday will be the biggest day so this swell should last a long time. 25 guys out at bowls already and a lot of surfers at the park too. diamond head looks solid 4′. i’m kind of excited. be careful for the box jellyfish today. have a nice day. i’m out of here…. oh wait, i just seen a solid 4′ at the big bowl. gosh, if it’s 4′ already, this swell might get up to 6 or 7 feet by tomorrow. see you in the water….
**it was seth’s first day in japan. after a long drive from narita airport, we arrived in yugawara. thanks to tokura-san for putting us up on a sweet ryokan onsen hotel. after some good baths, and great buffet breakfast, we headed to the beach. the waves were small and the water was cold but good enough for the kids. they were having fun and that’s all that matters… check out this clip….

i surfed twice, once at bowls and rockpiles. then surfed again at lighthouse in the afternoon. went for a swim, a short hike, and some yoga to finish my day. oh, and not to mention my 3 hour nap…. going to do it all again tomorrow…. goodnight.

check out this train crash in china today. 70 dead and 400 injured. shit, when i was on a train similar to this one the other day, i was thinking about it crashing too. it was so old and didn’t look too safe. things like this can happen at any given day. that’s pretty scary when i think about it…

check out the new Hawaii Magazine. just got it in the mail. wanted to thank my friend darin isobe for sending it to me…

and wanted to thank darin for using my photo for this spread. cool layout. i’m super stoked….

when i got off the plane and came home, my brother asked me to cut this aku or katsuo for him. cleaning fish was the last thing i wanted to do. but when lunch time came around, i was thinking that a katsuo donburi sounded good. so a katsuo donburi is what i ate.. it was so good….

speaking of cleaning fish. i was walking through a night market in a little village in thailand and seen this girl cleaning fish. i wish we had these in hawaii so i don’t have to clean fish all the time. i’d be there everyday, with fish or without fish.. haha…. just joking….