8am. not so good today. anmari yokunakatta desu….

good morning. 6am tuesday morning. trade winds finally back. it’s feeling pretty cool and hopefully the waves are cool too. north shore looks pretty small, maybe 2′ if your lucky. still too dark to see town but don’t get your hopes too high because it ain’t going to be anything like yesterday. i think we scored diamond head yesterday morning. still no sign of any big swell on the north shore anytime soon so get use to riding your small board ripping up the small waves. and if you want clean water, diamond head or hanauma bay is the call. i gotta get going. have a nice day…

after a long day yesterday, we had a barbecue for my nephew noah who’s back from iraq for a couple of weeks. i popped a beer along with my 1st round of poke. shoyu/ahi, tako poke, tako wasabi, and raw white crab. oh so good…

then round 2 was desert. fresh opihi’s from kauai…. oh my gosh…. after round 3 of poke, my dinner was finished…

poke equals beers. beers equals noise. you should have heard us last night. i snuck away and went to bed around 9pm. of course, with my earplugs in..

i took this photo yesterday at hanauma bay. this is called a manini. throw it on a barbecue, put some salt and butter, then it’s good to go. we call it, “the poor man’s lobster”. after a few beers, everything with butter taste like lobster…

and last. i really want to get barreled!!! maybe i’ll find one in waikiki today…

good afternoon. surf, swim ,surf, eat shave ice. what a day… pulled up to diamond head and expected to see junky dirty waves. instead, the water was clean and so were the waves. score…

shoulder high clean waves with not too many guys out. had a great morning session….

then went to give kalua a shower. he loved it…

then wen to see a dog swimming in the ocean…

then went to hanauma bay for a swim with the fish…
then went back to surf diamond head.
then went to eat shave ice.
then i just got home.
then i’m going to a barbecue and drink some beers.
then i’m going to sleep.
then i’m going to do the same thing over tomorrow…
good night…