good evening. gosh, such a long fun day of surf!! i took kairi, reika, and kota surfing on the north shore today. we checked ehukai sandbar and the waves were pretty dam good, but a little too big for the 3 kids….

so we all went to check velzyland. i thougth the waves were going to be junk because of the north direction in the swell but i was wrong. the waves were going off!! barreling and spitting. no rippers out so we scored big time. and get this, the waves were bigger than ehukai. the kids had their rides of their lives… they looked scared but i was more scared watching them charge. i’m glad the water was a little dirty so they couldn’t see how shallow it was…. awesome session….

then we went to haleiwa for lunch and shopping. these kids are classic. kairi is only 9, kota is 10, and reika is 13. gosh, i’m getting old…

second round, it was off to haleiwa. the lefts were firing and the kids were ripping it up. i really enjoy watching the stoke in the kids faces when they catch a good wave. that’s what surfing is all about…
anyway, i’m dead tired and the waves will be good all week long. have a nice evening and hope your surfing your dream. i sure am…. good night…

good morning. 6am thursday morning. pitch dark outside and can’t see the waves. but by the buoy readings and wind observations, i’m guessing north shore 2-4′ and a little windy. i’m sure there will be somewhere that will be super fun. these kind of days you got to go searching. and searching it is… i’m out of here. have a safe day!!!

i seen 2 lady’s on the beach yesterday checking out the waves at laniakea. i wonder if they surf???
COMMENT: Bastards go eat yourselves! Horses are meant for loving not getting slaughtered and ATE!! Go choke on your dicks asses!
yeah, that was the comment from the youtube video i posted about eating raw horse liver sashimi in japan. i get these hate mail comments sometime and i love them all…. when i travel, i eat anything. even your little dog. haha. just joking…. but i like to explore and will try pretty much anything. including you. haha… check out the horse liver sashimi clip that pissed off some viewer..

good evening. wow, what a long day. i went from one side of the island to the other. started at rocky point and ended up at sandy beach. surfed rocky rights this morning. pretty fun but i couldn’t get a good wave. i was in the wrong timing and was getting snaked by everybody. but what ever. there’s always tomorrow….
headed to sandy beach for tony moniz training clinic from 3-5pm. tony was once my coach when i use to surf amateur contests and still is till this day. he gives great advice and gets you prepared for contest surfing. i sure miss those days when we use to train every morning…. in the gym, pool, and running hills early in the morning, then heading out to the north shore and surfing giant waves….

showed up at sandy beach and the kids were popping out of everywhere. here is seth, finn, kairi, and kota. wanted to welcome kairi and kota all the way from japan….

these kids are our future. and their getting taught by the best….

coaching surfing isn’t just what you do in the water. it all starts out from conditioning and concentration. once you have both of those, the rest is easy. after the kids did their training on the beach, they hit the water and surfed heats against each other. this weekend is a big NSSA contest at sandy beach so most of hawaii’s best were out, including carissa moore….
ok, waves on the way down tonight but up again tomorrow afternoon. left over north swell and new north/west swell. strong trade winds. morning sickness but getting better throughout the day. gotta get up early so going to bed. have a great evening….