Kore wa Akan….


good evening. just got back from seeing tony and seth off at the airport. surfboard charges now days are crazy!! 2 boards for over $200. that’s out of control. but if you take golf clubs or a guitar, it’s free? so what do you say when they ask you what’s in the box? yeah, a guitar… that’s if you want to save $200…. travel smart….

kore wa akan…. that mean’s no way in english. tony had this knife in his bag when he walked through security. we were watching from the outside when he got searched. then when i saw the security pull this knife out of his bag, i just shook my head. i’m surprised he didn’t get arrested…. then when he seen us standing on the outside, he smiled and gave us a shaka…. classic….
**wanted to take this time to thank yasan and everybody at tssc for the wonderful time we had in shikoku. a lot of video and photos coming soon. just have to wait a while because i’m kind of backed up. too many things happening too fast.
**also wanted to thank kimura-san for picking us up and dropping tony and seth off at the airport. gosh, i feel so welcomed when i come to japan. everybody is so nice here…
**and last, galleries of the tssc surf clinic and tssc users contest coming up soon. well, as soon as things quiet down around here. got so many things to catch up on. gotta get to bed because my eyes are killing me. blood shot red…. good night…

Uncut Interview with Nao Omura….

good morning. 5:30am here in shikoku. going out for a surf before heading for the airport. i’ve been here for 2 weeks and haven’t surfed yet so i’m looking forward to getting into the ice cold water. yeah, river mouth baby…. have a nice day….

nao omura has a bright future ahead of her. she’s only 15 year old and traveled to more places than most adults. she came to hawaii last winter and surfed the north shore pretty dam good. i seen her surfing improve day by day. nao’s really sweet and has so much talent. i got the chance to sit down with her at kugenuma mcdonalds last week and shot this uncut interview. i talked her into speaking english so my friends back in hawaii could understand. she did a great job!!

imagine coming from kugenuma, one of the most packed spot in the world and looking at perfect v-land with only a few surfers out? this is normal for me but i was wondering what nao was thinking….
anyway, check out nao omura’s interview…..

Bye Bye Shikoku….

good evening. gosh, after such a beautiful day yesterday, today was terrible. rain, cold, and dark. i’ve been in japan for 10 days and i didn’t surf yet. i got new boards waxed up and everything ready to go. but no waves to ride it on. i hope we can get a session in before we head back to osaka tomorrow. tony and seth are heading home. lucky them… i miss the warm weather, surf, and sun…. tony told me that micah is complaining about waist high kewalo’s today. gosh, if he only knew….. i’m glad seth knows how it is and he can go home and talk some sense into him…. have a great evening. good night….

all the boys except for seth left shikoku this morning. all of a sudden, it’s so quiet around here. i rather have it loud. these kids are all good kids. their surfing really impressed me and their futures are so bright. i can’t wait to see them all develop into men. what ever path they choose to take, they will all succeed…. strong minds succeed….

after i came in from stand up paddling, i walked on the beach and saw seth’s name drawn into the sand. i thought that was pretty cool….

surfing is fun but after a while, the kids were starting to get bored. so they grabbed the longboard and fooled around. i could hear them screaming and yelling in the water from the beach. it was classic….

shikoku has the best japanese pizza shop in the entire japan. it’s on a side street and you won’t be able to find it unless some local takes you there. it’s called “nonami” and i love it there….

after a night of drinking, ramen is the closer. especially when it’s so dam cold like how it’s been. this is a ramen shop in osaka we went to after the barrels party. i’m really glad i ate it because it put me to sleep. and with 7 guys piled in a van for a 5 hour drive, sleeping is the best thing to do….

wouldn’t you want to sleep after something as ono as this???? lights out…. i’m a ramen lover. i drive hours and hours to eat ramen in japan. there is no place in hawaii that even comes close to the ramen here. if you want real ramen, you have to come to japan…..