good evening. another long beautiful day. i must sound like a broken record or something. i don’t know where the heck i get all my energy from? maybe from the kids? i’m even starting to act like a kid again. did i say again? i’ll probably always be a kid. but wow, we had fun on this happy turkey day. a lot of surfing, and a lot of photos…

we pulled by the horse to give him some turkey. then i jumped on his back with my surfboard and road him to rocky point. nah, don’t believe that you turkey…

rocky point was the spot again today. it was 3-5′ and perfect. with not too many turkeys out. a lot of broken boards and a lot of drop ins. i went out with my ear plugs so i couldn’t hear anybody yelling from behind me. i had a great time surfing out there by myself. haha…

isaiah moniz was ripping. this kid’s got style both in and out of the water…

then we all headed back to the log cabin house. some kids were surfing, some kids were playing at the house, and isaiah and dianne went out for a stand up paddle. i went out there after to check out the dolphins. my arms are sore….

there is this little secret beach break we surfed this afternoon. super fun waves with only a couple of guys out. here is seth moniz smacking the lip….

after today, nao-chan is darker than me. i only can see her face when she smiles….

kelia was always darker than me. i don’t know anybody else darker than her….

and last, the rell sunn menehune contest is on this weekend starting tomorrow. go out there and cheer on the groms!!!! CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFORMATION….
****HUGE ASS SWELL STARTING TOMORROW. HIGH SURF WARNING FOR SURE. YEAH!! STAY TUNED….

this morning there was nobody on the roads. but the beach was a
different story. a lot of turkeys out at rocky point…. kesa no
michi wa gara gara. kuruma zenzen nakatta no. demo umi no hou wa
chigaimasu. ippai ippai surfers… kore kara turkey tabemasu…

good morning. first off, i want to wish nao-chan a sweet sixteen happy birthday.[:??$B!^(B??????:] turning 16 years old in america is a big deal. why? i don’t know. maybe because it’s when a girl becomes an older girl? maybe because she can get her license? i still don’t know why but i remember my high school friends 16th birthday being a special one for them. anyway, happy birthday nao. i hope you get barreled today….

more shots from yesterday’s lunch break. cory lopes floating it. gosh, i love my camera….

after this wave, kahea hart came in and told me how cold it was out there. yeah, i know. he wasn’t the only one freezing yesterday. we all were. it seems like the water just got cold overnight. and it’s probably going to get colder. so to all you japanese coming to hawaii, bring a wetsuit or you’ll be paddling in after 15 minutes. just ask nao…

and last, check out this picture of the week. these indonesia kids playing in the floods. sure looks a lot more fun than sitting in front of a tv playing video games…. this is healthy fun…
**HAPPY THANKSGIVING DAY!!! today’s a day to give thanks so let’s all take this time to give thanks for everything we have…. thank you, thank you, and thank you…. as for the waves, a little smaller than yesterday but still super fun and clean. 2 rounds of surf today with 2 rounds of turkey dinner. have a nice thankful day….