good evening. gosh, what a beautiful day today. the tradewinds are back in full force making our skies deep blue. there was some waves in town today. surfed bowls for 3 hours this morning. i counted 28 guys out at 10am and that’s only at bowls. it was crowded but plenty of fun waves for everybody. i was surfing the rights and kind of dropping in so sorry guys. i had my 5’10 and i was having fun….

look how nice it was at the beach. canoes, coconut trees, blue sky, clean water, and fun waves. gosh, is this the start of summer already? heard some bigger south swells on the way.. yeah!!!

there use to be a lunch wagon in the parking lot in the old daiei near ala moana that had the best plate lunches. steak rolls with garlic or wasabi. i use to go there all the time. well, the wagon is gone but found out that they opened a restaurant near by. right across the street of palama market to be exact. i ate there yesterday and oh my gosh… so good. this is the 10oz. rib eye steak with garlic on top. $10 is a deal….. but my breath still stinks from eating all that garlic….

i gave my friend brandon 3 big awe’o weo’s i speared the other day. he told me that he’s going to sashimi one, and make soup with the other two. it sounded so good that i wanted to take back the fish and do the same thing. haha…

i speared this mu the other day too. these fish are the hardest fish to spear. they stay far away from you so you have to stay down for a long time to catch these. i mean a loooong time. i was so happy to spear this one and there is no way in the world i would give a mu away. to me, this is the best eating fish. steamed=awesome. deep fried=awesome. nitsuke=awesome. sashimi=broke da mouth…..

and last, after 20 years of the same stove. i finally went down to get a new one yesterday. this is the newest type and hope it lasts another good 20 years of good cooking….

good morning. 6:20am aloha friday. waves way down on the north shore. maybe 3′ with nobody out at pipe. swell looks really north so lani’s must be the spot. town has some small ones. chest high at ala moana. 8 guys out at the park, 3 guys out at rockpiles, and 6 guys out at the bowl. the winds are blowing strong trades so got some morning sickness conditions around the island. i’m going surfing… have a nice day….
**hey guys, it’s the first time in 12 years when the dollar went below 100 yen. it’s a time for you japanese to buy dollars now. don’t miss this chance. and it’s a time for people in america to wait a while if they are thinking about going to japan. unless your filthy rich. i remember the last time i the dollar fell below 100 yen. it was back in 1995 when we just got off a boat in indonesia. it was front page headlines in bali then and it’s making front page headlines in america now. i’m changing some yen right now…. if you have some, you should too….

got these photos from craig sako out in millilani. what started out as wild pigs wondering in his back yard turned into wild pigs being his pets. craig, did you know that black wild pigs or “kurobuta” are the best eating???

and craig, did you know i tried black wild pig raw liver before and it tasted unreal? better keep those healthy juicy pigs away from my friends…. hide them in your room.. haha….

and craig, did you know that i would love to eat this fish? fresh oio fishcakes. ummmm. let me know when i can pick it up… haha…
***now to leave you off with a clip of jack johnson’s breakdown. watch good because that’s jack surfing in there too. yeah, jack johnson rips….

good evening. the trades are back and i’m loving it. cool days with perfect blue skies. ended up surfing kewalo’s this morning. it was 2′ and really fun. 7 guys out and plenty of fun waves coming through. i think i’m about over going out to the north shore. had plenty of good waves this year and just want to have fun surfing in town. same thing tomorrow. save gas, surf town…. have a great evening….
Please Read This:
***don king and julianne yamamoto king are two on the nicest people on earth. i met don about 20 years ago from surfing the north shore. back then, he was the best water photographer in the world. then don got into cinematography and became number one at that too. he’s filmed movies such as, cast away, die another day, blue crush, charlie’s angels II, and also the drama “lost”. if you seen those movies, don probably took all the water cinematography. amazing footage. and julianne yamamoto. gosh, i remember sitting in my 7th grade math class at niu valley intermediate school when my teacher introduced a new girl that came to our school. it was julianne. she had a desk next to me and we became pretty good friends. anyway, i haven’t seen julianne for years after we finished school. that’s until the day i seen her at off-the-wall about 10 years ago. i asked her what she was doing there and she told me that she and don had gotten married. gosh, i was so happy for her… and for him too… two of the nicest people…

anyway, i saw don in the water shooting the last big swell at pipeline. we were talking and he told me about this film he and julianne made. i had absolutely no idea what the film was about but i knew that if they both made it, i was going to be awesome. i searched for the website and found it. don and julianne made a documentary about their family’s struggle to heal their son beau from autism. it’s called “BEAUTIFUL SON.” “BEAUTIFUL SON” received the BEST DOCUMENTARY AND AUDIENCE AWARD AT THE HAWAII INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL. it’s going to be on public tv april 8th but i couldn’t wait so i bought the DVD. this is the first time in my life i actually bought a DVD, let alone watch one. i watched it last night and all i have to say “it was awesome.” i learned so much about the illness that is now affecting one in 150 children. i was so touched by these beautiful children. this is the kind of documentary that can change your life. it already has changed mine. life is so precious and you should never take it for granted… to don and julianne, you did an awesome job in getting the message out. i wish you and your family the best. you will always be in my prayers….

this is don and julianne’s beautiful son beau…. this is such an awesome photo. i love it. and when i seen don’s underwater cinematography in the film, i got goose bumps. and was smiling ear to ear….. when you watch the film, you’ll know what i mean….
CLICK HERE TO CHECK OUT THE “BEAUTIFUL SON” WEBSITE…..
AND CLICK HERE TO ORDER YOUR DVD COPY…..
***and for the people in japan that probably can’t get a copy, let me know. send me the money and i’ll buy it for you and send it to your house.. i really feel that this DVD should be in every household. i’m keeping mine forever…..