good evening. what another beautiful picture perfect day here in hawaii. waves all over the island. the north shore was pretty dam good and so was town. town had some chest high waves with offshore conditions. i think just about everybody is getting surfed out. well, everybody except me. the north/west swell is going to hang around for a while so expect perfect waves everywhere on the north shore. light trade winds for the next week so perfect conditions too. gosh, can it please rain so i can get things around my house done? i can’t focus on anything else when the weather and waves have been the way it’s been this past month…..

took a spin to the east side today. stopped by the pali to check out the panoramic view. shit, when i saw how nice the east side was, all i could think about was diving….

then stopped by lanikai beach. this beach was once rated number 1 of the world for the most beautiful beaches on the travel channel. i’ve been to many beaches before but nowhere comes close to this….

white sand, emerald color water, and blue sky. what more could you ask for. not too many tourists or japanese know about lanikai beach. it’s pretty hard to find. look good because once you find it, it’s all worth it….

just wanted to say thanks to kensuke and maki. had a great day with this brother and sister… keep on surfing…..
**got an email from kevin from okinawa. thanks kev. check it out….

So I was in Hawaii for three days and I got to get out with Kurt Chambers and Derek LeVault. We went to the back side of Rabbit island on wednesday. It was awesome! We had all intension of just freediving until we saw monsta Uku and Ono. Kurt landed one Ono and I shot another to only lose Kurts spear.
Also had an amazing steamed Mu dish. Oishi!
***and last, check this out!!! the next 5 day weather forecast. get your sunscreen, surfboards, and g-strings out. oh, i mean trunks… haha… continued paradise…..[:??????:][:??????:][:??????:]

good morning. 6:30am wednesday morning. the waves on the north shore didn’t get as big as expected. in fact, it looks a little smaller than yesterday. looking at pipe now and i seen some 4′ sets. 12 guys out with super clean conditions. heard this swell supposed to be 3-5′ and perfect all week long. perfect for backdoor, rocky point, and v-land. heard everywhere was epic this past week. town looks flat, well, maybe knee/waist high at bowls. got 3 hardcore surfers out there now. it’s going to be another epic day of surfing. see you in the water….
**wanted to know the best states in america for jobs? check it out….
#1. South Dakota
#6. Hawaii
Unemployment rate: 3.2 percent
Population: 1,283,388
Mean annual wage: $38,630
Top industry: Government (19.6 percent)
-hawaii came in 6th place but if you add in the cost of living, that $38,630 average yearly salary ain’t that much….
**by the way, the dollar/yen rate yesterday was 103 yen per one u.s dollar. all you japanese out there, run to the bank and buy dollars. nows your chance. i swear the last time i changed yen to dollars, the rate was 120. shit, i got ripped off. should have waited….

*i was watching the news today and seen this clip of this near airplane crash. it was nuts….

good evening. gosh, what another awesome day here in hawaii. the waves, weather, and everything is just awesome. all day long!! i’ve been waking up early in the morning for the past month and i still don’t mind. every single morning the waves have been perfect and it’s just getting better. yesterday was perfect but today was perfecter? is that even a word?

this is 7am at off the wall. sick waves with only one lucky guy out. that lucky guy was ryu nakamura. i watched him catch 3 waves all by himself with nobody around. grabbed my board and went to say hi on the way out to backdoor. paddled by ryu and he looked so dam happy. i didn’t want to bum his trip so i went to backdoor to grab a few. gosh, it was absolutely perfect. crystal clean long barrels…. then i went back to off the wall because i could see the photographers coming out. i guess sometimes i gotta work. it was only ryu and i. photographers kinsan and kenji sahara shooting from the water. then shuji kasuya and tetsu urayama paddled out. not even 30 min into the session, i caught my second wave. it was a shitty one and after it closed out, i jumped off my board and started paddling back out. i could see big sets coming in from the outside but i thought i could make it back out. see, if you don’t know, off the wall has no channel. catching a wave is the easy part, paddling back out is the hard part. you have to time it right our your in serious trouble. i started paddling back out as the sets came nearer and nearer. made it over 2, then there it was, a solid 7′ double up ready to break in front of me. i threw my board and dove under. i felt the board pulling my leash and then i felt the board not pulling my leash. i knew my board broke because destination makes the best leashes which never break. so there i was on the outside with a piece of my tail left. got pounded a few more times then finally made it back to the beach. i was on the way to my car to grab another board but thought, enough for today. i got barreled and there will be many more days to come. i was back in my car heading to town by 10am. a little bummed out, but happy bummed out. understand??

i break so many boards every year. at the pace i’m surfing recently, one broken board a day is enough. if i paddled back out, it could have been another one easily. as i was watching from the beach, i seen 5 guys coming in with broken boards. and watching dino miranda break 3 longboards 2 days ago, i’d thought today was already an expensive day for my surfboard sponsor. sorry yasan. but gosh, the waves were going off today. backdoor was at it’s best and the boys were getting deep long barrels. can’t wait to go out there again….

and on the way back passing waimea bay, i stopped to take this photo. i saw 5 whales in all different spots jumping around. where else in the world can you see all the things i seen this morning? i love this place….

and last, kelia borrowed uncle robbie’s camera one day and took some photos at her house. i kind of freaked out when i saw this photo of seth in her iphoto library because it looks pretty dam professional. gosh, i don’t think i could give such a cute smile like that to my older sister… haha…[:??????:]