good evening. gosh, after yesterday’s bad day with my cracked windshield, i was wondering what else could go wrong. and with the water leaking badly in my shower, i had so many things on my mind today. so there i was, out at waikiki surfing with the two girls from akita. everything was good, nice waves, super fun session, so i’d figure i’d take my camera out of my pocket to get a photo of the girls. rested it on my lap to line up the boards, then a wave came and took it right off my lap. shit!!! i just seen my new olympus 790 expensive camera fall into the deep sand…. i dove down and tried to look for it but no way. too much waves and sand making the water murky. i tried for 20 minutes and some of the stand up paddle guys and tony were helping me but no sign. i was bummed. super bummed. had so many great photos on there that i still didn’t download onto my computer yet. i cried underwater when i was looking for it and that didn’t work. i even swore like a high school kid getting into a fight. i’m glad i was underwater too for that. think positive kirby. that’s what i was saying for the rest of the day. so positive is what i’m thinking. i’m healthy and didn’t get hurt. you can buy another camera, but you can’t buy another kirby. haha…. just joking. so there it is, my sad story for today. please don’t anybody give me shit about it. i want to forget what happened….. and driving around with a cracked windshield doesn’t help one bit….
and wasn’t it a gloomy day today? dark, cloudy, and muggy. yesterday was picture perfect hawaii and today was picture unperfect hawaii. but the girls told me that today’s weather is good for akita so i shouldn’t be complaining. sorry…
everybody wants to see kalua so kalua we went to see. still big and growing faster than seth. no, seth is not getting smaller, it’s just that kalua is getting bigger….
and carissa moore is in australia kicking ass right now. she won the women’s trials and scored the highest wave in the roxy pro event. yes, a perfect 10. carissa faces the women’s 2007 world champion next and if i was the champ, i would be scared… go carissa…
and wanted to thank kenji sahara for taking this shot of my last wave at off the wall yesterday. i just came out of the barrel, did a cutback, came in, got in my car, and headed back home. what a nice day in the office…
**and some sad news. a 28 year old surfer died yesterday surfing silver channels in mokuleia. i don’t know why but that’s a bummer. gosh, i hope it isn’t anybody i know. my heart goes out to that surfers family and friends…. and to everybody else, enjoy and appreciate your life because it can end in any second…
What a Bad Day…
The #1 Best Pick up Line….
good morning. 6am thursday morning. waves back up on the north shore. it looks around 4-6′ but should be getting bigger because the buoys are up. conditions? perfect!!! more perfect than perfect yesterday. get it? town is small. some leftover waist/chest high sets and expect packed lineups. i checked the park yesterday and must have seen 200 guys out. surfing is still booming…. girls, boys, men, women, dads, moms, grandpas and grandmas. everybody’s surfing now days. that’s cool… well, i gotta get out of here. i’m going surfing. see you in the water. have a safe day and hope your front window doesn’t crack. shit, i couldn’t stop thinking about it all night. it’s going to cost $404 to fix. i want to find that little rock and beat it up… ahhhhhh…..[:??????:][:??????:]
wanted to thank kenji sahara for sending me this photo of isaiah moniz surfing nanakuli tracks…. nice shot….
**when i use to go to clubs, i’ve seen and heard everything. but when i read this pick up line in a magazine, i couldn’t stop laughing. this is actually a good one. but don’t use it because it won’t work on me… haha…. enjoy….
“I’m new in town and can’t find my way around; could I have directions to your place?”
My Precious Kumu Gyotaku Print….
good evening. gosh, yet another good day of surf on the island. everywhere was clean and good. i headed out to the north shore and when i pulled up to off-the-wall, not one surfer was out. i was out there….
check out this wave!! last week, there would be everybody on this. but not today… i went out there and had a stress free comfortable session. probably my first one of the year. and hopefully many more to come….
then after getting barreled, i jumped in my car and headed to kyle’s house on the east side. gosh, it was such a beautiful drive going over the H-3…. note: check how clear my front window is in this photo….
got to klye’s house and i was super stoked to see my gyotaku print. this is the big kumu i caught the other week. i didn’t realize how big it was…. kyle’s father makes the prints and i’ll give you the whole scoops in an upcoming blog. i was super happy and went speeding back to the frame shop in town.
as i passed through the likelike tunnel, i seen some city workers cutting down the trees. the all of a sudden, i heard a “crack”…. shit, something flew on my front windshield of my car and cracked my windshield. it wasn’t there before right? shit, i was bummed…. check out the crack going across the window. that sucks… but i’m still happy about my gyokaku print… yeah!!!! worry about the window later….
this is kyle’s boat. check out the yamari sticker he put on it. that’s sick… speaking about yamari, just wanted to say hello to the kimura family and everybody at the factory in wakayama. see you guys soon….
