good morning. 5:45am wednesday morning. waves around the island, no wind, and clear skies. it’s going to be another fun day of surfing. i’m out of here… have a nice day….

i was down at the ala wai yacht harbor yesterday and saw these photos hanging on the wall. this is old hawaii. look good and you will have a hard time figuring out where this is. why? because there’s no magic island. magic island was built over a nice coral reef and when i saw this photo, it kind of pissed me off. look at that a-frame wave breaking right where there is a lagoon now. that sucks on what the government use to get away with in the old days. this will never happen again in hawaii. this is the surf spot and reef that we let them take away….

and here’s another one. this isn’t the north shore of hawaii. this is waikiki. yes, waikiki. no hotels and high rises. all it took was one and others followed. now i’m going to fight to keep the country country. once we let one hotel go up out there, more will follow…. yes, money is evil…..

when i was in high school, we use to head down to this park on the weekends and have crazy barbecues. i went there yesterday to check the waves and when i looked at those picnic benches, i had thousands of memories…. oh, the good old days….. do you know where this park is? doubt it….

good evening. another great day of surf in town. but not for me. i’m kind of surfed out and even though the waves were overhead and perfect, i took it easy. trying to get things done around here so i can start my travel journey for this year. the sooner i get things done here in hawaii, the sooner i can use my passport. and i can’t wait….

i drove by diamond head and oh my gosh… perfection!!! overhead, no wind, and not a cloud in the sky. dream swells….. i was watching for a while but it wasn’t good enough for me. i’m still in barrel mode. and if you want to get barreled, you have to go north….. i just thought that i’ll have diamond head all summer long….

came home today and was looking for kenji and chiaki. they were outside taking the worms and bugs out of kenji’s hair. haha… just joking. chiaki was cutting kenji’s hair and it looked pretty fun. i know how to cut hair so i asked if i can do it. kenji said yes so i got the scissors out and started cutting. it was actually my first time cutting somebody’s hair. i just made like i knew what i was doing and it came out pretty good. so if you see a good looking japanese photographer on the north shore, remember who made him that way… me… haha….

looks good yeah?

then it was lunch time. fresh fried papio… so good…..

and last, look at this photo of this poor little girl in iraq. i saw this on the internet and it made me sad. a lot of people don’t know how some kids live their daily lives in other countries. i see things like this all the time when i travel and it makes me super sad. please don’t take things in life for granted….

good morning. still got some waves in town. looks like 3′ and semi clean. not as clean as yesterday morning but still looking fun. got a bunch of guys out at bowls and probably 200 guys out at diamond head again. heard it was nuts yesterday. north shore is big. 8′ with a close interval swell. the waves are close together and not that good. sunny day again so get out and enjoy. i’m out of here..

want hardcore? this is hardcore…. do i want to try it? no way….
**though i’d share this message i got from a friend. i totally agree….
Life is too short to wake up with regrets. So love the people who treat you right. Forget about the one’s who don’t. Believe everything happens for a reason. If you get a second chance, grab it with both hands. If it changes your life, let it. Nobody said life would be easy, they just promised it would be worth it.