good evening. what another beautiful day we had here in hawaii. perfect sun, perfect winds, and perfect waves…..

i went to check pipe at 7:15am and this was the first time i felt sick watching the waves. why? because there was a bodyboard contest. it was perfect 8′ pipe and backdoor aframe peaks all over. shit, these guys always score… i was pretty sad leaving the parking lot heading towards haleiwa…..

pulled up to haleiwa before 8am. i knew it was going to be perfect because of the swell direction and winds. so i just parked my car and grabbed my board without even checking the waves. as i got to the beach, i only seen 4 guys out. what? i was thinking there was a shark or something. got out to the lineup and the waves were perfect 4-6′ peeling rights. i caught so many waves until my leash broke. had to swim against the current from the outside, which wasn’t too fun. grabbed another leash and my 6’2 and headed back out. little by little it started getting crowded and by 10am, there were 40 guys out. i had my fun in the morning so i just went in. then the winds came onshore right after. i took this photo at 11am. onshore but still fun. i guess it pays off to wake up early…

then headed to glenn minami’s shaping room to pick up a couple new boards. a 6’6 and 7’2. feels so good and can’t wait to ride it tomorrow….

i came home around lunch time and checked my email. paul gordinho sent me some photos from this morning. gosh, i felt like i was surfing haleiwa by myself. look how smooth and perfect the face is. not my face. the waves face….haha….. this was my 6’4 round pin matchi shape….

then here is the inside toilet bowl. i didn’t know i can still do turns like this. i was ready to give up surfing for bodyboarding already…. but i remember eating shit right after this frame. who cares, i got the shot…. thanks gordinho for letting me relive my super fun haleiwa surf session this morning. i’m going to be an early bird again tomorrow.
**i love my job… just thought i’d say that….

good morning. should have some waves today. and should be clean before the onshore winds mess things up around 10am. so get it early….. have a nice day and see you in the water…..

check out this photo. on monday, feb. 11th, korea’s number 1 national treasure was burned to the ground. the namdaemum was a gate in the original walls surrounding seoul back in the joseon dynasty. it was constructed in 1395. yes, i said 1395. what a tragic lost. it’s like the eiffel tower in paris burning down, or like the colluseum in italy burning down. that’s pretty heavy…. by the way, a 69 year old man set it on fire. why? don’t ask me….
***the pipeline bodyboarding contest is starting today. if they get anything like how they got last year, they will score. the waves were perfect 10′ and the spongers were going off. jeff hubbard was the man. check out this video….

good evening. woke up early again and headed to the north shore. pulled up and i just paddled out. seen like 40 guys out so i thought it was going off. got to the lineup and i was the only surfer out there. there were freaking 40 bodyboarders…. and the waves weren’t that good, the current was strong so it seemed just like a practice session for the bodyboard contests coming up tomorrow. i was over it. caught one wave, and ended up paddling in after only 30min or so…..

i snapped this photo with my cel phone. gosh, the waves look pretty good yeah? trust me, it wasn’t as good as it looks. if it was, i wouldn’t be sitting on the beach. heard the contest will be going off in the next 3 days so i’m glad it will be over soon. so i got 3 days to go diving and then i’m surfing out there every single good day it breaks until april…..

i had a better time sitting on the beach with kenji, chiaki, and kinsan talking story….

and yes, buoy 1 that measures the size and intervals of all our winter swells is still broken. heard today that it will be out until december 2008. i’m glad because nothing’s better than getting to the north shore at dawn not knowing what to expect. it’s been like that all winter and i scored some good sessions with nobody around….

and last, check out this cool photo from the surfers path website. it’s cool to look at but not too cool if your that surfer bungie jumping….
**and last last, i haven’t took an afternoon nap in a long long time. this is how i looked today….