good evening. woke up early to fix some dings in my surfboards. sanding on a sunday morning ain’t the happiest thing to do. but that’s part of the job of being a surfer i guess. then i had to fix the brakes on my car. it started grinding metal to metal a few days ago. not good. changed the pads and now it’s good to go. i was done by 10am and was thinking what i should do because the waves on the north shore was junk. thought about staying home and working on my computer all day but after 10 minutes, something caught my eye…..

i’ve been so freaking busy recently that i totally forgot i had a new board. it was standing in the corner of my house saying “try me”…. my new matchi shape 6’0….

i’ve been riding FCS for over 10 years now. actually ever since FCS was invented. this year, i ordered glass on fins on all my boards because i wanted something different. and you know what? it’s a lot different. my new boards have much more drive and feel a lot more solid. and i don’t have to get confused changing fins all the time to get a board to work the way i want it too. so glass on fins is all i’m going to order in hawaii from now on. but for traveling, still can’t beat FCS….

anyway, i waxed up my board and headed down to diamond head expecting it to be typhoon windy surf. and it was just that. not a single surfer in the water and only one wind surfer. when i got down to the beach, the only windsurfer came in and told me “your hardcore.” i looked at him and said “what?” he said “it’s victory at sea out there and even too windy for windsurfing.” i was thinking i had three things going for me. first, i got a brand new board that i wanted to ride. second, it’s sunday but there was nobody out in the ocean. and third, i have a warm wetsuit on. hardcore? yeah, i guess so. i was paddling out to light house and before i even got out there, this 4′ wave jacked up right in front of me so i took off and it was one of the best waves i’ve caught in a while. the swell was so east that the spot right in front of the shower had waves i’ve never seen before out there. i ended up just surfing there for an hour and caught like 20 perfect rights. all by myself… and the whole time, i was thinking to myself “hardcore”…. i had one of the best sessions i’ve had all winter, including north shore. my board worked super good, i was warm in my wetsuit, and i had the whole ocean to myself… when i finally went in, i saw this japanese surfer walking down the path with his surfboard. so i looked at him and said, “your hardcore.” i don’t know if he understood what i said but i hope he felt as good as i did today….

went to chinatown for lunch. gosh, everytime i go down there, i trip out on how many people are on the streets. feels like i’m really in china…..

good windy sunday morning. 7am and my house feels like it’s going to fly away. back in october when they forecasted a windy hawaii winter, they weren’t joking. i can only remember a couple no wind days. oh well.. the swell is still pretty solid out of the north. lani’s and pupukea the spots again today. got some guys out at lani’s and nobody out at pipe yet. town has some east swell wrap in the waist high range. i know where it will be overhead and pretty good today. DH. yeah, diamond head. windy but fun. just watch out for those wind surfers flying over you…

the monster pipeline pro waiting period is from today until february 9th. pipe isn’t breaking today to it’s probably cancelled. try again tomorrow. check out the live webcast by CLICKING HERE….

i was checking out my friend yoshi’s blog out and seen this photo. this is a VW engine on a motorcycle. it’s the first time i seen something like this and would love to drive it. i’d probably flip over…. whooooop…. check out yoshi’s blog by CLICKING HERE….

speaking of VW’s. my friend cal has a 1964 beetle. i’ve been begging him for years to sell it to me. in fact, every time i see him, i ask him if he’s ready to sell it. his answer, “no”…. i can understand….

and last, i’ve been eating good food recently. chinese, thai, korean, and local barbecue. but you know what? i really miss my japanese food. the freshest of the freshest lobster sashimi, abalone, hamachi, uni, ikura…. ahhh, i better go, my mouth is watering….

good evening. earlier this morning, i was at home taking my time because the weather was so cloudy and windy. then the calls started coming in. “ehukai is going off and it’s super sunny.” jumped in the car with naoka, picked up allyssa, and speeded my way over. pulled up to ehukai and the waves looked so fun….

i seen some guys taking off up at pupukea and kicking out in front of the lifeguard stand at ehukai. freaking long ripable waves…. had a bunch of people out and every japanese photographer you can think of was shooting so expect some pupukea sandbar issue out soon….

then it was off to ted’s bakery for lunch. took the girls with me. alyssa ordered plain rice and a piece of ted’s pie. kelia ordered french fries. it was cheaper to buy the whole pie so we took it to the dove house to eat it all…. dam it was good…. by the way, ted’s has a new special called kalbi chicken. oh my gosh… if you want barbecue style chicken, that’s the thing to order. it was so good. a lot better than the shoyu chicken i usually order. try it….

the tako wasabi in hawaii is the best. i’ve tried it almost everywhere but i think the best place is the new safeway in kapahulu. it’s so good….. kanpai[:?????????:][:?????????:][:?????????:]

in japanese, we say “atama over.” in english, we say “overhead.” seth moniz, v-land….
**and last, check out the headline news in america today. “Spy satellite loses power, may fall to Earth” what??? yeah, a 20,000 pound space shuttle the size of a bus lost power in space and expected to crash somewhere on earth. when?? late february or march. why?? because we don’t think before we do things. what to do? nothing. you can’t hide….. try to sleep on that one….