good evening. headed out to the north shore with hayato around 9am and when we got there, the waves were getting better. the sun came out and there were some good backdoor barrels. where was everybody???

the waves cleaned up and seemed like it was getting bigger. i surfed for a little while and then went in to grab my camera. shot a couple photos until one of my friends got hurt…. shit, backdoor is dangerous….

kenji doing his job documenting the happenings on the north shore. with the good, comes the bad….

this what happens when you head butt the reef. not good…. i don’t really want to say who this is because he’s back on the north shore resting and probably won’t want a million phone calls in the middle of the night…. he’s got about 20 or so stitches but he’s ok…
check out 3 of 8 shots i took today…

i swear the beaches are empty these days. i was wondering where the heck was everybody? nobody around at one of the most packed and most photographed surf spots in the world…

i finally got a shot of matchi riding a matchi shape. matchi has been here the longest so i was waiting for this day to come….

and here’s the shot of the day. this kid’s name is actor ruben tejada from the movie blue crush. sick wave. who ever tells me that backdoor was shitty today, look at this pit. you missed out…

good morning. 7:30am on this windy tuesday morning. small waist high waves in town and head high windy waves out in the country. 20 guys out at pipe. umm, what should i do? i’m so cunfused!!! haha… have a nice day….

if you know how to fish or dive, you have to know how to clean and cook fish. catching the fish is the easy part. here is hayato showing the boys how it’s done…

after a couple of kegs of beer, you start to do things you wouldn’t normally do. things like riding a miniature bike. and having a hula hoop contest…. gosh, had a blast. here’s hayato, tokura-san, and naoka wondering out the heck we rode that little bike…
**by the way, i seen that bike in tokyo hands in shonan 10 years ago. it cost like $300 but i just had to get it. something you will never find in hawaii. and plus, i already got my $300 worth of laughs and memories…

good evening. waves weren’t too good today so jumped in the boat for a quick dive with my brother and hayato…

not bad for a half day of diving in town. it was super windy and not a good day to dive but these are the days you score…

our goal was to get sashimi for tonight. done deal….

this evening, naoka, mae-chan,kenji, chiaki, nakajima-san, hayato, and tokura-san came on by for a little barbecue… here hayato is cutting up the fish for the sashimi platter…. it was sooooo goooood…. fresh fish and a couple of kegs of heineken…. keep hawaii green….

checked bowls on the way in. there were some chest high waves and it took a long time to come in. but when it did, it was nice. but 30+ guys out wasn’t too nice…
and last, check out this clip. pretty crazy ass skater….