good morning. it was raining all last night and still is. i forgot what the sun looked like already. got south winds blowing so town is unsurfable. the north shore cleaned up a little but still bumpy. looks 3-5′ and nobody’s surfing as of now. i don’t think anybody’s surfing anywhere right now. maybe east side? umm… winds supposed to turn back to trades tomorrow. just have to wait and see. pipeline masters waiting period starting tomorrow. hopefully the next swell on tuesday can get things started. well, have a wet day and drive safe….

on december 7th, 1941, the japanese bombed pearl harbor just before 8am. that’s exactly 66 years ago today. over 2400 people died and it was the start to WW II. i remember asking my grandpa what he was doing that morning of the attack. he told me he heard the bombs and ran outside into a bunker he made. he said he was really scared. gosh, i could imagine how he was feeling. it must have been so loud and felt like the world was ending. my grandpa was second generation japanese/american so he was caught right in the middle. i don’t like talking about the war but every time december 7th comes around, it makes me think. war sucks!! nobody wins. nobody is right. war is wrong period…. we’re in the middle of a war right now and nobody is winning. young men and women are dying every single day. haven’t we learned yet? i guess not….

**because i’m american, i learned our side of the war as i was growing up. our school books made the japanese look 100% wrong. in japan, it must have been the same. us americans probably looked 100% wrong. but after i went to hiroshima, i found out that we were both wrong. and if japanese visited pearl harbor, i’m sure they will feel the same way. nobody won that war…. anyway, today is a day to remember the lives lost at pearl harbor….

good evening. still wet, windy, and stormy big waves today. when will this get over? wanted to surf or dive today but couldn’t do anything. stayed home all day and my eyes are burning from my computer. and my head is sizzling….. i feel like a computer dork or something. i could never do this everyday of my life. no way… still no school in a lot of areas, traffic, down trees, wet roads, dirty water, and a lot of pissed off people. still no power at waimea? our island looks like a typhoon came through. and we needed water? got plenty now. i heard this past storm was on national news. nuts… it’s freaking raining so hard outside my house right now. i guess it’s going to be another one of those nights. can’t wait till the clean water, clean waves, and sunny skies come back. should be soon…. well, i hope so…. until then, hang in there and be safe….
**surfed the net today and found some sick footage of the big winter storm 2 days ago. check this out…

CLICK HERE FOR VIDEO….

**and check out kelly slater and tom curren surfing this sick sanbar in california. CLICK HERE FOR VIDEO….

Let’s Learn Indonesian- Part 1

“nashi” in indonesia means rice. and “goren” means fried. so nashigoren is fried rice. this one if from the restaurant right in front of the surf spot in bali called “changu”. surf, eat, surf, eat….. bali style…

and “tabako” in indonesia means tobacco. this is a tiny island off north sumatra. we pulled up and they had these leaves drying in the sun. home made cigarettes….
**and “terima kasih” means “thank you”….
**and “saya chinta kamu” means “i love you”….
**and “jiggy-jig” means “your so beautiful”…. haha… just joking on that one… find out what jiggy-jig means youself. can’t say it here…..

good morning. still junky waves around the island. north shore is 15’+ and bumpy. town, forget it. the weather supposed to clear up and the winds back to trades this weekend. perfect timing for the Pipeline Masters that starts dec. 9th….

anyway, i got to get in the water so i’m going to drive around and look for waves. have a nice day….

how’s this. i was going to pay for lunch the other day and when i pulled out this bill, i saw some writing on the top. www.wheresgeorge.com. i was really curious to see what it was so i came home and checked. wheresgeorge.com is bill tracking report. see, you log on, type the serial number in, and it will track it. i put it in and am wondering where this $10 bill will show up next. check out the track by CLICKING HERE….

and check out waimea bay the other day. heard wakita got a bomb. can’t wait to see the photos. this one if from surfline.com. stay tuned….

by the way, dove wetsuits came out with a cool towel. it’s probably going to sell out soon so get yours while you can. aloha….