ohayo gozaimasu. 5:40am tuesday morning. the waves on the north shore are GOING OFF!!! it’s about 4′ now and should be 6-8′ later today. no winds so the conditions are epic!!! i’m out of here.. see you in the water….

gosh, 2007 japan typhoon season seemed so long ago. so many things went on since i got back to hawaii that i forgot all about “the day” in japan. this was sept. 5, 2007 in shikoku. yes, japan. i remember paddling out super stoked. the waves were big and perfect and i knew i was going to get big barrels. that’s how perfect it was. just take off, set the rail, and puinsai. i swear some 10′ big sets came in. we call those “obake sets” in japanese. obake means ghost. and yes, there were a few ghost sets that i had to dive under on. got drilled and held down pretty long. but getting pounded is normal. you have to if you want to get a good wave like this. this one was a double up in the inside. you wait there, be prepared for the obake sets… was this one worth it? oh yeah. i got barreled and spit out. kinsan was there and got the sickest photos. check out the next Surf1st magazine coming out today in japan. and somebody please bring me a copy…. arigato….

and check out this killer dove ad in the new Surf1st. hayato in chiba wearing the perfect camo wetsuit for surfing….. and diving….
***and please vote for colt brennan for the heisman trophy winner… VOTE HERE….

good evening. surfed kewalo’s early this morning with nao. the waves were waist high and perfect. it was only us and another girl out. nobody was around all morning. then got a call right after we got out of the water of a shark sighting. a big tiger shark was circling around the buoy. glad nao wasn’t out there to see that because if she did, she will probably never surf kewalo’s again. then we drove out to the east side and ended up at sandy beach. we were bodysurfing the shorebreak and it was pretty funny. it was a picture perfect day in hawaii and i’m glad i was outdoor all day because bad weather is on the way….

went to this place in kailua for lunch. super good and super healthy. i ate the veggie lasagna and marinated mushrooms with artichokes. so good… don’t remember the name of the cafe but i took some photos so it will be on the hawaii info page on go-naminori.com…

it was such a nice day all over the island. went to the east side and stopped by the pali on the way. so nice…

even nao was playing tourist. speaking about nao, i asked her where she started surfing. she told me she came to hawaii with her parents when she was 9 years old. she went to waikiki, got pushed into a wave, and that was the start of her surfing career. only 5 years ago. that’s pretty amazing….

this is lanikai beach today. if you watch the travel channel, lanikai beach will make the top 5 most beautiful beaches in the world all the time. such an amazing place…

there were two weddings on the beach at the same time side by side. it’s the first time i seen that. only in hawaii….
**back to back to back north/west swells on the way starting tomorrow. yeah!!! can’t wait to get barreled…

**and back to back to back to back days of rain on the way. check out the 5 day forecast. get your umbrella’s out….
**by the way, heard the police are coming hawaii for a concert. i’m there….. i went to the concert at the aloha stadium in the 80’s and it was nuts. can’t wait….

***and last but not least, sunny garcia’s back!!!! CLICK HERE FOR SURFLINE INTERVIEW….

good morning. 6:15am. waves FLAT in town. and super small on the north shore. maybe some 2 footers? the conditions are really clean all over with these light winds. busting out my small board and going surfing somewhere. maybe diamond head? anyway, have a nice day… oh, and how’s that? UH WARRIORS #12 IN THE NATION!!! YEAH!!!!

this was the ledge we were diving the other day in waikiki. it was loaded with fish and turtles. brandon found it first and told me there was a little 3′ shark inside it. i went down a couple times trying to spear this uhu and all of a sudden, this thick 8′ shark came out to check me out. he seemed pretty pissed off because he was swimming fast and jerking around. that’s not a good sign. he circled around once and went back in the ledge. brandon was throwing chum off the boat to get the shark out and for other fish to come around. the shark didn’t come out but some nice size papio’s and uku’s came by. i speared one but it came off. then another one came by and my brother speared it….

we grabbed a few good size tako’s too. when you grab them, they try to climb up your arm. if they get to your mask, your in trouble. so the best thing to do is keep the tentacles from climbing up your arm. then get your knife out and stab it between the eyes. of if you don’t have a knife, bite it between the eyes. it will turn white and die. then go home and make tako poke….. umm…..

on my last drop, i came down to the bottom pretty fast so i put my hand out to stop me from hitting the bottom. i didn’t look good and ended up putting my hand down on a huge vana. ouch!!! like 10 spines went through my glove and deep into my hand. it stung so bad. no vinegar on the boat so the next best thing is urine. yes, piss. i wasn’t about to let anybody piss on my hand so i had to do it myself. imagine a tourist looking out from their hotel room and seeing someone on a boat pissing on his own hand? haha. i was thinking about that… but it worked. my magic piss dissolved most of the spines but there are still some deep inside. and it hurts like heck….

this was the waikiki catch. shane even speared an opelu. have you ever eaten that sashimi style? oh my gosh… so good…. and check out that budweiser fish. taste good after a dive…[:?????????:][:?????????:][:?????????:]