good evening. small waves around the island but super fun. spent half the day shooting and the other half in my garage checking out all my toys. sorted out my big boards for the north shore, and sorted out my diving stuff. now i’m ready for anything… waves supposed to pick up tomorrow. i’m dawning north shore…. see you out there….
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WARNING: AQUA DOTS CONTAIN THE DATE RAPE OR “GHB” DRUG!!!! gosh, what is this world coming too. consumers all around the world want to get the cheapest toy so they are turning to china. china doesn’t only use dirty cardboard boxes to make manapua’s, they now they use the “date rape” drug in children toys. aqua dots is hottest selling toy in 2007. you can find them in wallmart and even costco. 4.2 million were made and these toys are in childrens playboxes around the world in 40 countries. and it’s just a matter of time when other toys will be recalled. all it takes is another childs death. what a screwed up world we live in. as an american, i put the blame 100% on america. how could the government let something like that get into our country? and watch out japan because it’s probably still on toy shelves in the toy store around the corner…. christmas is right around the corner and if some kid didn’t get sick, this toy would be in millions of households…. come on america, protect our children….
**a little better news. the waves were so fun today. i’m super surfed out so after checking the waves this morning, i decided to go shoot queen’s. i finally took my camera stuff out of my suitcase. i’m glad it still works. check some of the photos out…

my sister paddles out with 4 of her 5 kids and gets the first wave. and a set too… good job sis… show those kids how to catch a set at the most crowded spot on in hawaii….

kelia’s surfing is just getting better and better. next year, she will probably be break dancing on the nose of her board…

i forgot the boys can longboard too. here’s seth walking the nose on his brand new board…

isaiah has a good style on the short board as well as on the longboard. he’s the style master… haha…

josh was stressing. he couldn’t get a wave for a while because everybody was snaking him. i told him to go paddle out there and go no matter what. just like uncle kirby. and that’s what he did. good job josh….

this is the best stand up paddle board women i’ve ever seen…. she was ripping.. and catching all the waves too….

there are so many girls surfing now a days. when i started surfing, there were no girls surfing. now, there all around. it’s pretty cool because no need go to a club anymore to check out chicks, just go surf….

and if their not just in the water, their on the beaches around the world. so a message to all those guys that go to clubs trying to hook up with chicks. sorry, you guys are in the wrong place….. surf’s up!!!

good morning. 6:30am. 2-3′ on the north shore. rocky point looks pretty good with 5 guys out. in town, bowls is chest/shoulder high with 8 guys out. clean condtions with light trade winds. i’m going surfing…. have a nice day… **oh, about that hot filipino chick on my blog last night. his name is “Tom”…. and i ain’t kidding….. haha…

something is wrong with our world. seems like every country in the world is strange now. weird weather and weird things happening. perhaps “global warming”?? it’s november 8th today and we haven’t had a single HIGH SURF ADVISORY for our north shores. instead, we got a few high surf advisories and even a high surf warning for the south shores. and when i went to the outer islands in bali last month, the water was freezing cold. yeah, freezing cold water in bali. i had a 2mm full suit and it was still cold. up until this year, i use to rush back to hawaii in late september or early october to catch the early north shore swells before the circus gets here. this year, i got back here late and i didn’t miss a thing. are our winter seasons getting pushed back 2 months? that’s what happened last year. could we have 3 solid north/west swells in april again? what ever happens, i’m getting a little worried. for the past few years, seems like there’s records being broken in every aspect of our weather. could it snow one day in waikiki? could the eddie aikau contest waimea bay contest be held in april? if you asked me that 10 years ago, i’d say your crazy. now, i don’t know. and if it did, i wouldn’t be surprised… anyway, gas is $3/gallon, the yen is 113 to the dollar. good time to get some gas and buy some dollars….
**here is nada sou sou hawaiian style. sang by keali’i raichel and it’s called “Ka Nohona Pili Kai” from the album “Ke’Alaokamaile”. i went to his concert a few years ago and when he sang this, i got goose bumps. i remember him saying that this was such a beautiful song he heard in okinawa so he decided to translate it to hawaiian. it goes like this….
**and wanted to say thanks to holli for sending me this link. yes, holli is okinawan and really proud of it. so is every single okinawan i know of, both in hawaii and japan. if i was okinawan, i would be proud to. i love everything that has to do with okinawa. and i learned that by spending a lot of time there. the people, the food, and the culture. awesome place to visit and if you haven’t been there before, your missing out. i know some hawaiians that got stationed there in the military and wouldn’t want to live anywhere else….. so to all you higa’s, oshiro’s, and other japanese/americans, i mean okinawan/americans in hawaii, get to your roots and get your ass to okinawa. you won’t regret it…

what’s up guys, gosh, the waves in town were going off today!!! surfed my hideout spot this morning and it was perfect… head high and no winds. came home, took a nap, and went to check the waves this evening….

this was bowls at 4pm. no, that’s not ants, that’s over 35 surfers. no thank you…

this was diamond head at 5pm. the waves were super good but there were 150 guys out with no parking on both sides of the road. no thank you… headed straight back to my hideout spot. it was packed. 5 guys out. haha… anyway, a great day of surfing. the water is cleaning up. i could actually see the reef. surf town again tomorrow. save gas…. goodnight…

this is mitchbergh again. the guy who gave me the shell….

i found a photo of him 4 years when i was in saraigao. that’s him on the far right….. gosh, he grew up pretty fast. that year, i taught some of the boys how to do the “shaka”….

this is also 4 years ago. the girl next to me is luma. luma is the best filipino cook in the world. when you go on boat trips, you usually lose weight. but not when luma cooks. next is gerry from sagana resort. good surfer and super cool guy…. and to the far right is scott countryman. scott owns “the king” and is one of the only guys who does surf charters in the philippines. he surfs, dives, and has one of the nicest boats i’ve ever seen. scott, please keep those spots secret and if anybody wants to go there, tell them that i have to be there. then i’ll be in cebu the next day.. haha….

i wasn’t joking when i said luma knows how to cook. check out our menu for sept. 07, 2004. this was the second time i’ve been on the boat. everyday, the menu would change. remember, this is no 5 star restaurant with super markets around, this is on a 120 foot yacht in the middle of the ocean somewhere in the philippines…. great job luma….
*that was 4 years ago. this was this year in sairgao….

there was this hot chick hanging around the contest. i’d see her everyday like 4 times or more. she’d just be everywhere. eating at the restaurant near our room, at the parties, at the contest, and even taking a tan on the beach with her bikini….

finally, i got the balls to ask her what her name was. and i was lucky enough to get a photo of her.. i’ll give you her name tomorrow….