good evening. gosh, i surfed over 5 hours today. gas chambers in the morning and rocky point in the evening. surfed out. the waves were chest high but perfect conditions. and it wasn’t even crowded. got a lot of waves. back home and ready to sleep. it’s only 6:30pm but i’m done. good night…. oh, christmas island buoy is 7′ 17seconds. big south swell on the way. it’s half way here. figure, tahiti was huge on nov. 1st, christmas island which is in the middle of hawaii and tahiti picked it up today, which is nov. 3rd. so what do you think? yes, nov. 5th on south shores of hawaii. save gas, surf town….

on our last bali trip. one of the girls in our group got cut by her fin surfing uluwatu’s. that was amy. it was only the second day into the trip but she never once complained about it. i know other girls who would would cry and take the next flight back home. and i know guys like that too. but amy taped it up, stuck it out, and enjoyed the rest of the trip. well, maybe not all of it. imagine sitting down next to a guy who acts like a samurai preaching what he learned from the book “men are from mars, women are from venus”…. yeah, that was me… haha… how was your day amy? i got that from chapter 2. and for those of you who didn’t read that book, please do. we men have a hard time understanding women and that book helps a lot. i know it’s impossible to understand womens selfishness and stuff but it’s a start. haha…. just joking….

amy was also nice enough to send me the photo i forgot to take. a perfect sunset in wakayama from the roof at yamari shirasu factory. gosh, it was beautiful….

and this one too. i was thinking about the great time and memories i had these past 3 months. and many more to come….

by the way, this is the helicopter chasing the 15′ tiger shark away from chun’s last week. crazy yeah…..

good morning. 6:45am on this beautiful saturday morning. clean clean glassy conditions all around the island. town is chest high with 12 guys out at bowls already. my friend tat’s was calling me all morning telling me the waves were good. i was still sleeping but now i know why he called me. the waves are good. north shore looks 2′. a couple guys out at rocky point. epic conditions. well, i’m going to surf the north shore. see you in the water….

there was a high surf advisory for the south shore of hawaii yesterday. the waves weren’t too big but another big swell on the way. this is tahiti 2 days ago. yes, november 1st, 2007. something is wrong with our planet. why is there waves out of the south in november? i’m getting a little concerned…. moana drollet on the wave of the year…..

my friends from hawaii wanted to see the cloud 9 article in this months surfing world. you can’t get it here in hawaii so here’s page 106-107. this is shinpei horiguchi. shinpei deserves to be invited to the eddie aikau. if he ever gets invited, i’d put money down on this kid…

and this is japanese pro cameraman u-ske. one of the best fisheye water photographers in the world. this is at cloud 9 last month. u-ske can shoot, and he can surf. that’s cool….

good evening. the waves didn’t get that big but it was really clean. jumped in at kewalo’s this morning. it was clean and barreling. came back home to relax when i got a call from todd mitsui. he and bobby were heading over to a secret spot and i couldn’t resist. surfed for another couple of hours. the waves were clean and fun. no wind for the next 4 days so epic conditions. see you in the water…

lisa anderson is my womens surfer hero. she’s like the womens tom curren. i remember a while back when i surfed a few asp contests, i would get nervous when she came out to surf. she surfed so good. better than a lot of the guy surfers. anyway, she has a book coming out called “Fearlessness”. can’t wait to read it….

japan’s next lisa anderson. another legend in the making. check out jpsa grand champion kaori-chan’s interview on go-naminori.com. CLICK HERE….

hey, the invites for the THE QUIKSILVER BIG WAVE INVITATIONAL IN MEMORY OF EDDIE AIKAU is out. it’s been a while since a japanese got invited. japanese pro wakita is in!!!! i’m so stoked for him…. and i’m pretty pissed off because they forgot to put my name on there too. come on quiksilver…. haha….
INVITEES: (first name alpha. order)
1. Andy Irons (Hawaii)
2. Brian Keaulana (Hawai)
3. Brock Little (Hawaii)
4. Bruce Irons (Hawaii)
5. Carlos Burle (Brazil) **
6. Clyde Aikau (Hawaii)
7. Darryl Virostko (California)
8. Greg Long (California)
9. Ibon Amatriain (Spain) **
10. Jamie O???Brien (Hawaii)
11. Jamie Sterling (Hawaii)
12. Keone Downing (Hawaii)
13. Jason Ribbink (South Africa) **
14. Kelly Slater (Florida)
15. Makua Rothman (Hawaii)
16. Mark Healey (Hawaii)
17. Michael Ho (Hawaii)
18. Noah Johnson (Hawaii)
19. Paul Paterson (Australia)
20. Peter Mel (California)
21. Ross Clarke-Jones (Australia)
22. Rusty Keaulana (Hawaii)
23. Shane Dorian (Hawaii)
24. Sunny Garcia (Hawaii)
25. Takayuki Wakita (Japan) **
26. Titus Kinimaka (Hawaii)
27. Tom Carroll (Australia)
28. Tony Ray (Australia)
ALTERNATES
1. Darrick Doerner (Hawaii)
2. Chava Greenlee (Hawaii) Aikau Pick
3. Kalani Chapman (Hawaii)
4. Pancho Sullivan (Hawaii)
5. Taylor Knox (California)
6. Reef McIntosh (Hawaii)
7. Tony Moniz (Hawaii)
8. Garrett McNamara (Hawaii)
9. Ross Williams (Hawaii)
10. Dave Wassel (Hawaii)
11. Ian Walsh (Hawaii)
12. Braden Dias (Hawaii)
13. Myles Padaca (Hawaii)
14. Anthony Tashnick (California)
15. Kala Alexander (Hawaii)
16. Keoni Watson (Hawaii)
17. Derek Ho (Hawaii)
18. Tom Curren (California)
19. Nathan Fletcher (California)
20. Danny Fuller (Hawaii)
21. Dustin Barca (Hawaii)
22. Koby Abberton (Australia)
23. Laurie Townend (Australia)
24. Manoa Drollet (Tahiti)
HONORARY INVITEES
Mark Foo (Hawaii)
Todd Chesser (Hawaii)
Tiger Espere (Hawaii)
Jay Moriarity (California)
LOCATION: Waimea Bay, North Shore, Oahu
OPENING CEREMONY: Thursday, November 29, 2007. 3pm
HOLDING PERIOD: Dec. 1, 2007 to Feb. 29, 2008.
To be held on one day when surf
measures at least 20 feet.
BIG WAVE RIDERS: 28 of the world’s best.
PRIZE MONEY: US$98,000 in prize money
US$55,000 for first place.