good evening. left 5am, got back now, 7:30pm. all day on the boat 15 miles off okinawa diving with the sharks. and i mean a lot of them. so tired i can’t even keep my eyes open. going to sleep. tomorrow the same. hope another good diving day, less the sharks. got tons of photos but not tons of time to download them. laters. good night….

good evening. got here to paradise. warm weather, blue sky, clear water, and nice people. i’m stoked to be here and can’t wait till tomorrow. going diving.. see ya….

i’ve been in japan for a long time and have been watching women surfers come and go. sei nagai has been there from the beginning and is still here now. i met her in shikoku 15 years ago and it blew my mind how good she surfed. sei-san would always be out on the good days looking for barrels. i surfed with her on some big days in shikoku, hawaii, and samoa. i remember about 6 years ago when i saw a photo of her in the sickest big blue backdoor barrel. it ended up being a spread in the surfing world magazine and if she were a guy, it would have been a cover shot for sure. the kind of photo that men dream of getting…..

i went on a surf trip to samoa with sei-san a while ago. she was the only girl there and she was keeping up with the boys. the waves were 6-8′ + everyday and she was out on every session with us. i was on the boat sitting next to photographer kinsan watching the waves when i seen this huge freak set out the back. everybody started stroking to the outside and sei-san just turned around and charged. i remember yelling from the boat as she bottom turned and pulled into this huge barrel. that wave was 8′ solid and it was crazy. i was so happy to witness something that i probably never witness ever again. a girl taking off, setting her rail off the bottom, timing the wave, and pulling into the barrel trying to stall. look at her right arm dragging. oh my gosh, i almost shit in my pants. here is the best photo of that trip!!! i have it in my head like a permanent video clip. something i will never forget. yeah sei-san…..

i was in shikoku a few weeks ago when sei-san stopped by the tssc factory. got this photo of sei-san and kinsan and was looking at it thinking to myself “wow, here i am with two people i’ve known for 15 years, doing the same thing we’ve been doing all our lives, surfing”. that’s freakin awesome….