good morning. still hanging out here in japan. surfed kyoto yesterday. it was flat in the morning and came up throughout the day. it was chest high in the evening with good conditions. there was hardly anybody out because of the lightning. guys were coming in and telling me it’s dangerous. yes it is but i wanted to get in the water. stoked i didn’t get striked by lightning. it’s a slim chance but you never know. so many surfers in japan die by lightning. unheard of in hawaii. anyway, i’m going to visit some friends and chill out for the next few days. have a nice day….
when ever i see fireworks in 7/11, i always think about something that happened in the past. it was in 1992 when i was staying with kalani robb in the grand hotel in ichinomiya, chiba. he was 13 years old back then and full of energy. we walked into 7/11 one evening to get something to eat and kalani seen the fireworks for sale. these are illegal in hawaii so he couldn’t believe that they sold it right in the store. he loaded up his basket and we headed back to our hotel. when we got back, he asked me for a lighter and i told him that i didn’t have one. 10 minutes later, i was on the 12th floor balcony drinking a beer and i heard kalani yelling “watch out”…. i looked in the room and seen him with a rocket that was lit and running toward me. that dam kid lit it on the stove in the kitchen and shot it off our balcony. he ended up lighting all his fireworks that way. i will never forget that. classic….
*and what’s more funny is how my nephews would act if they could buy fireworks in 7/11. there would be a fireworks war for sure…
kalani robb on fire…..
Hawaiians in Okinawa….
good evening. another hot day here in japan. just checked the surf forecast again and nothing out there. good time to refresh because there’s lots and lots of typhoons yet to come. i’m in no rush because i’m not going anywhere anytime soon. got trips to the philippines, okinawa, and bali lined up but that’s not till later. going to wax my boards, and sharpen my spear. see ya later….
i caught 4 barrels with this brand new board until it buckled in 3 places. i’m pretty bummed out about it but matchi is shaping a new one for me as we speak….
this is the life saver drink. it’s called ukon and it cost 200 yen or $1.60. if you don’t want a hangover the next day, it’s worth every penny….
i just ate abalone again last night. i’d never thought i would get tired of eating abalone but i am. i’m good for a while….
**wanted to welcome Hawaiian Josh Lacar to Go-Naminori. Josh is from Waianae and has been living in okinawa for a while. he’s been sending us some awesome galleries. he just sent us a sick gallery of jamie o’brien that will be up soon. stoked to have you on board bruddah josh….. hope to go down there soon to check you and all the boys out. sunabe days, hard reef night!!!! cheers….
Flat Summer Days In Hawaii…..
good morning. gosh, nothing on the way for waves in japan. seems like at least a 7 day break. umm, bummer. heard the waves in hawaii are still kind of small. it must be the smallest summer ever? glad i’m not a part of that. just wanted to say to my hawaiian friends, hawaii’s probably the worst place you want to be in the summer. it’s just too dam far from the southern storms. if you want consistent overhead surf everyday in the summer, go to tahiti, samoa, or indonesia. once you go, you’ll know what i mean. just ask carter and russ. and if you are thinking about coming to japan to chase typhoons? if you don’t have a lot of money or a lot of friends that know the scoops, forget it. japan is so fickle and it’s like gambling. you can go home a loser, or you can go home with the best surf session of your life….
this was the other day. gosh, now i wish i surfed more….. don’t know when the next time waves like this is going to come….
pulled this photo of the surfers journal website. thought it was cool….. another helicopter shot….
and leaving you with a sunset shot from the japan sea yesterday evening. freaking awesome….