good morning. 5:45am and i didn’t get up early to surf small waves. i got up early to dive. no wind, small waves, clean water. i’m out of here…. have a nice day. oh, as for the waves. like i said, small. bowls is flat. well, maybe knee high. diamond head came way down too. knee/waist high. 5 guys out at the park and nobody out at rockpiles or bowls. grab a mask and check out the underwater world….

i took the naito family from chigasaki surfing last sunday. i had a really fun time with a really nice family. thank you yoshihiko-san, miho-san, and keito. hope you enjoyed your stay in hawaii. keep on surfing….

since i came back from thailand, i went to champa thai restaurant twice. but you know what, it’s all good. i’ll go there every night if i’m having a good time with my good friends. team hiroshima, kinsan, maki, and yukari-san…. thanks for the great time guys and gals….

we were one of the first to get there, and the last to leave…. why would you want to leave when your eating with these cool chicks. and drinking steinlager pure’s….. oh shit, it’s 6:15am already, i got to get going…. just saw a set at bowls. 20 inches and 3 guys are already on it. see ya….

good evening. went to meet jun and team hiroshima down at bowls this morning for a surf. the waves were waist high and didn’t look too fun. so we headed to diamond head lighthouse and the waves were pretty dam good. overhead peeling rights with only 3 other guys out. so the 5 of us paddled out. actually 3 others but i count myself as 2 because i’m still dam hungry for surf. i’m still trying to catch 2 surfers share of waves ever since i got back from japan. i love surfing and feel like riding any kind of wave. sunburned, screwed up eye, and stiff neck. nothing’s stopping me… haha… talking about screwed up eye, i went to my eye doctor and he told me the bad news. the crap growing on my eye is getting bigger and i need surgery soon. shit!!! i’m tripping out a little and it still hasn’t sunk in….

after surf, we went to eat pho at my favorite place, hale vietnam. i don’t think they have pho in japan because every time i take somebody from japan to eat pho, they always tell me it’s their first time. unbelievable…. wouldn’t it be a good idea to open one up in japan? i think so….

i had my leftover chicken plate from the other day so went to share it with kalua…. geez, i didn’t realize how big kalua got. maybe 400lbs???

then i gave him a half a watermelon i had at my house. gosh, kalua is one lucky juicy looking pig. i took girls over to visit him so i asked my sister to put gel on kalua’s hair. styling yeah?? looks like some of the guys hair i see in night clubs. haha….
**by the way, i sent out the ear rings i gave away. somebody sent me an email saying that he wanted to give it to his wife for mothers day. what a nice guy. i don’t want to say his name for privacy reasons but it’s on the way to aomori. enjoy….
**and check out jun’s surf shop called “NINE SURF” in hiroshima, CLICK HERE….

good monday morning. 6am and it’s so lighted outside. wow, i guess you can surf from 5:30am these days. checking the surf now and it looks like it came up a little from yesterday. just a little. seen a waist/stomach high set at rockpiles with 2 guys out. only 1 guy at the bowl. that’s were i’m going because yesterday was super fun and uncrowded. in fact, at one point, nobody was out. north shore came up a little too. see some 1 footers at lani’s and some swells coming into pipe. the winds backed down so it looks like it will be another awesome day here in hawaii. enjoy….

wanted to thank satoshi kubota from ON THE BEACH down in miyazaki for this photo of golden week surfing. hope to see you typhoon season…. speaking of typhoons, typhoon 2 looks solid. hope you all get waves….

still having problems getting aid into myanmar. the longer it takes, the more people will die. check out the photos of myanmar before the cyclone, and after the cyclone. sad….

and other sad news just in. a 7.8 magnitude earthquake killed more than 8,500 people in china. a local school collapsed and 900 kids are trapped under the rubble. there’s been so many deadly natural disasters these days. and the scary part is that nobody knows where and when the next one will happen. enjoy life guys..

and last, check out kyle nakamoto and his ono. shit, i’m jealous… i got to get me one. maybe tomorrow????