good evening. since i came back to hawaii, i surfed, surfed, and surfed. today, i went diving. the water was dirty, and the conditions weren’t ideal. but i had to get into the underwater world. called up shawn and before we knew it, we were on my boat suiting up. i went down about 40 times today, the deepest being 45′. and every time i was down on the bottom, i was just thinking about how much i missed diving. my body feels clean, my mind is clear, and i have fresh fish to last me the whole week….
all top quality fish. not bad for 2 guys. i’m going to the supermarket to pick up some ginger, onions, and black bean sauce. my mouth is watering already….
**keiko leaves tomorrow. that’s a bummer. i drove by bowls on my boat 2 times today to say bye to her. but she wasn’t out there. so just wanted to say bye now. have a safe flight back to japan and keep on surfing!!! until we meet again….
last friday night was keiko’s sayonara party. after 7 years of living in hawaii and surfing bowls everyday, keiko’s going back to japan. yeah, keiko is the chick with the white wetsuit that rips bowls lefts and rights. she became like family to all the local surfers out there and it’s going to be pretty sad not seeing her in the lineup everyday. but i’m sure keiko will be back someday…. right keiko? right….
the party was down at jun’s automotive shop in kakaako. the food was crazy good. so much japanese food and local food mixed. gosh, i kept on eating and eating…
i forgot who, but somebody busted out this amazing sashimi platter. gosh, i felt like i was in japan….
not only had good food, had choke chicks too…. team japan in hawaii. these girls are pretty much locals here in hawaii. if you make trouble to any one of them, your going to have to deal with all the boys. and that won’t be fun… this is yuka, maki, yuko, yuki, keiko, and akoi…. all cool surfer chicks…
like maki-san’s cell phone ring tone goes. “It’s Ladies Night”…. oh yeah, what a night….
more cool chicks… jeannie chesser is one of the coolest chicks you’ll ever meet. she’s really nice, super funny, and doesn’t take shit from anybody. i like that… and trisha on the right surfs bowls too. i’ve seen her out at bowls many times before but this was the first time i met her. now i’m happy because i can drop in. haha…
and last, i like this photo because it shows the real reid. not the reid that snaps for people dropping in on him. but the classic funny reid that just says anything he pleases. i really like guys like reid that take care of the japanese and make them feel comfortable here in hawaii. that’s the aloha spirit!!
**gosh, had a blast at that party and when keiko comes back, we got to do it all over again…. good luck keiko and hurry on back to hawaii….
Sayonara Keiko….
More Golden Week Queen's….
good morning. 7am tuesday morning. north shore got up to 5′ yesterday with spots like rocky’s and laniakea going off. it came down today but still surfable. the south swell is pretty much done. got some leftover waist high sets at bowls. perfect for longboarding. not too many surfers out right now. i see only 3. it’s going to be another beautiful sunny day here so get out and enjoy… have a nice day….
**check out more photos from yesterday….
this kid had inside queens all to himself. i though he was some beginner kid from japan or something but when he stood up, he ripped the shit out of this wave. i was impressed….
there are some tattoo’s i like, and there are some tattoo’s i don’t like. these i like…. check out the hawaiian islands on her shoulder and the hula girl on her back. pretty cool….
kelia is the easiest surfer to shoot. she’s just super photogenic. every time i shoot her, i always get 2 or 3 sick ones. i like this one the best from yesterday’s session…. and check out how perfect the waves were…
after a good early morning surf session, everybody goes home happy….
Golden Week Surfing Waikiki…
good evening. went to queen’s this morning with my brother, sister, and 2 nieces. had a blast… check out these photos…
when we got there, my sister was already out. it was her and only a few other surfers… check her out nose riding kelia’s board. it’s the first time i’ve seen her nose ride and it’s probably the first time she’s ever did it. i guess your never too old to get better in surfing. i’m not saying my sister is old or anything.. haha… and i feel sorry for kelia because she will probably never get that board back from my sister. it’s a keeper….
my brother surfs once in a while. when we were kids, he use to surf better than all of my friends. i always wonder how far he would have gone if he didn’t quit. anyway, it’s good to see him back in the water enjoying the ocean…
my 2 nieces rip. they are the same age and are really good friends. seeing that makes this uncle happy…
these two girls have grow up so much these past few years. WARNING: go near them, i’ll shoot you. and i ain’t joking….
i seen a patagonia ad of a girl hanging 10 backwards and thought it was pretty cool. so i asked kelia yesterday if she could do that. she looked at me and said “yeah, of course”. then she did it this morning. i ain’t saying this because i’m her uncle, but “dam, she’s good”. i wish she would focus on longboarding instead of shortboarding all the time. if she did, i’ll bet anybody she’ll be world champion real soon….
**wanted to thank guy hagi from channel 9 news for putting my photos on the news… mahalo guy….