Tuesday November5日 2024年

24 hours Wide Awake…

good evening. i was thinking about yesterday and it was the first time i think i was up for 24 hours straight. well, not including some of my crazy high school days. i woke up at 5am in hawaii and went to sleep at 12am japan time. so that’s 5am hawaii time. gosh, i took a short nap on the flight between movies but that was it. what a long ass day. by the way, i watched the movie “american gangsters” with dezsel washington and russel crowe. gosh, that movie was awesome. and it was true too…. gosh, the gangsters in the old days were the real deal…
well, besides the traffic jams, japan is cool. oh, i mean cold…. freezing cold. seen mt. fuji this morning half covered with snow. it was pretty awesome. then driving around looking at the cherry blossoms was awesome too. japan i such a beautiful country and there are so many things to see and do. been taking video clips here and there. people here think i’m crazy walking around with my small dig. camera talking to myself. i don’t think too many people realize it shoots video too. oh well, it’s not the first time people think i’m crazy so it’s ok.

“Be myn 2nyt”… this is a lighter my friend had last night. he asked me what this meant? i asked him where the heck did he get it from? haha… translated in english, it means “be mine tonight”….
anyway, here is my diary from yesterday on video. my wide awake 24 hours of fun… check it out….

Welcome to Freezing Japan…

good morning. 5am and like always, i’m totally jet lagged. yesterday was a pretty long day. surf, airports, airplanes, long lines, heavy baggage, and the worst of it all, tokyo traffic. tokura-san picked me up from the airport and there was traffic all the way home. i think it took about 4 hours… the traffic is one thing i don’t miss here…. but we had an awesome dinner and a couple cold beers. i woke up at 4am and i was really wide awake. felt like doing something but nothing to do…. so here i am freezing my ass off because don’t have a jacket or sweatshirt. i thought i had one here but guess not…. anyway, going to go to 7/11 and but some breakfast. gosh, i hope there is some hot oden….. have a nice day and be safe…..

when i was at the airport yesterday in hawaii, i went to the bookstore. i opened up the new water mag and seen my photo. about a month ago, jim russi told me that water was going to run a photo he shot of me. i was super stoked. this is a pretty cool shot because jim took it from behind the wave and you can totally tell it’s me. and he was cool enough to write my name too. thanks jim russi and water magazine… you da best…

and last, it’s good to have friends in hawaii. especially friends like mine. i checked in for my 9 hour flight and i pulled up to the red carpet. i usually do because i hate standing in line. then there she was. my old time friend greeting me with my free business class upgrade ticket. i was really stoked and want to say thanks but can’t say her name. i don’t know if she will get into trouble or not. but anyway, thanks friend. you da bestest…

Surfing the Philippines: Sairgao Cloud 9 Part 2 of 2

**check out part 2 of 2. the chicken fights were sick…..