good windy tuesday evening. wow, windy weather and waves around the island. i heard the north shore wasn’t that good. neither was town, unless you knew where to look. stay home or get more sick? or jump in the water to surf, feel better, and clean out my body? easy choice…

i went to check diamond head this morning and there was a rent a car with two elderly people sitting inside. something looked wrong…. were they alive?

back to the waves. when the trade winds have been super strong for the past couple of days, i head straight to diamond head. trade wind swell = good diamond head. if you look from the top, you probably won’t even paddle out. the ocean looks like a washing machine…. but these are the best days for lighthouse. the waves were 4′ and if you picked the right one, you could do 4 or 5 turns. these are the kind of days that i like because nobody else surfs. ended up surfing for 2 hours and had a lot of fun. lighthouse is a real tricky spot but if you know how to surf it, you can have have an awesome session. just like how i did… tomorrow? yup…. same thing, same place….

i checked to see if they were breathing. yes they were. i think these 2 lovebirds were just taking a nap. i hope their not still there….

i was watching pipe this morning and wondering why there were only a couple of guys out. shit, there was a bodyboarding contest. i didn’t even know about it. that’s why there seemed to be so many bodyboarders out at pipe recently. hope jeff hubbard and kotani are still going. they ran all day today and are supposed to finish tomorrow. to watch it live, click on the link below…. enjoy… oh, and for the chicks, their big bodyboarding contest at pipe starts march 31st to april 14th. isn’t winter over by then? oh well, we’ll just have to wait and see. more info on that contest coming soon….

**CLICK HERE FOR LIVE WEBCAST STARTING 8AM HAWAII TIME….

4′ and fun!!! 2 hour session…

good morning. wow, i slept for over 12 hours!! i was feeling down yesterday but feel much better today. everybody is telling me to slow down. but i don’t know how to. does slow down mean “not surfing/diving/going out with my friends?” if that’s so, i can’t do that… i’m going to take it easy one more day and go back to my fast life. getting sick sucks. but i guess it’s my body telling me something. something i should listen too. for now, i’m in slow mode. that means my phone will be off today, and i’m not going to be on my computer all day. put in a DVD, and chill… hope your all feeling much better than i am. if your not, you should slow down too… have a nice day….
oh, wanna know how the waves are? still big on the north shore. looks solid 4-6′ and out of the north today. sunset? haleiwa? yup, probably going off. town is small but fun. strong winds. surf safe….

remember that epic pipeline day last week? i do….

shun’s last day, i took him to foodland to buy ice cream and stuff for a smoothie. and stuff to make cookies. he asked me if he could buy an apple and picked a huge fuji apple from aomori. it was soooo sweet….

just another barbecue at the go-naminori house. gosh, i love this place…
**i just watched this pretty awesome video of garut on surfline. the kid’s ripping, and the kid has a dream to be the first indonesian to make the WCT. if anybody can do it, it’s garut!!
**CLICK HERE FOR GARUT’S AWESOME VIDEO….