good wednesday morning. 6:40am and it’s looking kind of windy out there. diamond head is blown out. good for wind surfing. north shore came down. pipe’s 1-2′ and only one guy out. looks like our dream winter season is coming to an end. town has a small south swell. shoulder high with a lot of guys out at bowls already. stronger winds on the way with more swells. still fun for surfing and that’s what i’m going to do today. surf….. have a safe and nice day….

when i left my house yesterday morning, this little dog was walking in the middle of the street. if i wasn’t watching the road, this little chihuahua would have been a brown pancake. i stopped my car and tried to catch it so i could take him to the humane society or something. he kept his distance and when i got close to grab him, he barked at me and almost attacked me. i actually got scared. see, when i was in 2nd grade, i teased this chihuahua that looked exactly like this one and it jumped up and bit through my lip. i had to get stitches and everything. so i kept my distance from this dog but at the same time, wanted to catch him so he wouldn’t get run over by a car….

i knocked on the house on the corner and the guy told me to leave the dog alone. he said that he always sneaks out of the house and roams around the streets. i thought that was pretty nuts because that’s pretty freaking dangerous. but what can i do? so i jumped back in my car and went along…. hope the owner of this dog takes better care of him….

and last, this is the big fish i caught on that mentawai boat trip video i posted the other day. i’m going on another boat trip to indo later this year and hope to spear one of these giants…. wish me luck….

good evening. went down to watch my nephew’s final heat at the NSSA REGIONAL CONTEST AT KEWALO’S….

i was watching some heats and the level of surfing is so high now. the kids are just going off now days….

the waves were 2′ and really good. long lefts with high scoring waves. a perfect day for a contest today….

it was pretty cool to see all the support. after every heat, the competitors would come in and hear it first hand from their coaches or parents. i had an awesome talk today with my former coach, ben aipa….

i was cheering for the moniz clan. i’m so proud to see them all do good. josh and seth were in the same final for the menehune division. i think seth won the whole thing….. he caught 2 really good waves and ripped it all the way to the inside. and i heard that kelia and the rest of the boys are ripping it up. i hope they kick some ass this year at the nationals in california…. they all qualified and are going in july….

here is billabong team rider coach “uncle rainos hayes” and seth. i use to surf contests back in the 80’s with rainos so it’s so cool to still see him around passing on his knowledge… and plus, uncle rainos rips….
**anyway, the waves came up today in town. should be getting bigger throughout the week. as for the north shore, it’s still good too. i think everybody on this island is surfed out…. i sure am…

good morning. 7am tuesday morning. looking at pipe/backdoor now and it looks good. 3-4′ and some pretty good barrels. the conditions cleaned up and i might have to go out there to get my last barrel of the year. got so many things to do in town today but one barrel will make my day. ummmm… town is waist high with a little bigger sets. contest going on at kewalo’s again today. the finals are on!! i heard my niece and nephews are surfing really good. micah, kelia, isaiah, joshua, and seth stayed at the billabong house this year on the north shore and it’s paying off. seth went out in his first heat and kicked ass. he had 2 perfect 10 point rides. finals start at 10am so go down and support our local amateurs. i’m still stuck in the middle of town or country. going to make some calls…. have a nice day….

recognize this doggy? this is one of the most famous dogs in the world. he’s the doggy star on the drama “lost”. pono lives next to me and is one of the smartest dogs i’ve ever seen. i went outside yesterday morning and he showed me how smart he is. i asked him what 5 plus 2 was, he barked 7 times. then i asked him what 3 plus 5 was and he barked 8 times. i was tripping out. gosh, the dogs smarter than me. i see pono everyday and just found out yesterday that he’s the dog on lost. gee, i should take some time and watch that drama….

pono just had pups. want to buy one? full bread labrador/retriever at $2000/each. these pups will be gone fast so here’s your chance. cute little things….

i would love to have one. he can do my taxes for me…. haha….
**a 23 year old bodyboarder died yesterday at pipeline 2 days ago. he hit his head on the reef and died at kahuku hostpial. he surfed pipeline for the past 2 weeks every single day. this kid was too young…. be careful and be happy because your life could end in a flash….