good evening. another long day. gosh, i really like to maximize my 24 hours/day but the sun is killing me. i’m black as can be and need more water than i usually do. it’s called dehydration….[:????????????:]
pulled up to backdoor this morning to check it out. 4′ and fun but not good enough to get me out there. it has to be perfect…
instead, we went to rocky point and that was the call. it was super fun and not too many guys were out. score… then we went back for an afternoon session. nao-chan caught so many good waves today. score…
i called garut from rocky’s. he was at off the wall so he came speeding over on his bike. we had a fun session together…
even though it’s cloudy, the camera guys have to work. my friends derek hoffman, sonny miller, and kinsan. if you were out at rocky’s this morning, somebody got your wave. that’s for sure….
**nao and i went to grab a sandwich and eat it on the beach at off the wall. we were there for about 30 minutes. check out some of the shots i got. if i stayed there all day, i could have made a magazine…
this was nick mita’s last wave. snap!!!
i’ve seen dave wassel get more backdoor barrels than anybody else out there. he’s a lifeguard at pipe so i guess he knows when it’s good. oh, not to mention, dave is a good free diver. he represented the hawaiian team in a tournament held in tahiti…
oh my gosh. check out this air. i think this is cory lopez. going left at off the wall is crazy. when it’s low tide, there is no water to land on. more photos coming tomorrow. i have to go rehydrate with an ice cold beer. [:?????????:]
