Happy Sweet Sixteen…

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good morning. first off, i want to wish nao-chan a sweet sixteen happy birthday.[:??$B!^(B??????:] turning 16 years old in america is a big deal. why? i don’t know. maybe because it’s when a girl becomes an older girl? maybe because she can get her license? i still don’t know why but i remember my high school friends 16th birthday being a special one for them. anyway, happy birthday nao. i hope you get barreled today….

more shots from yesterday’s lunch break. cory lopes floating it. gosh, i love my camera….

after this wave, kahea hart came in and told me how cold it was out there. yeah, i know. he wasn’t the only one freezing yesterday. we all were. it seems like the water just got cold overnight. and it’s probably going to get colder. so to all you japanese coming to hawaii, bring a wetsuit or you’ll be paddling in after 15 minutes. just ask nao…

and last, check out this picture of the week. these indonesia kids playing in the floods. sure looks a lot more fun than sitting in front of a tv playing video games…. this is healthy fun…
**HAPPY THANKSGIVING DAY!!! today’s a day to give thanks so let’s all take this time to give thanks for everything we have…. thank you, thank you, and thank you…. as for the waves, a little smaller than yesterday but still super fun and clean. 2 rounds of surf today with 2 rounds of turkey dinner. have a nice thankful day….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide